A flat-bottomed boat is a boat with a shallow draft, two-chined hullwhich allows it to be boatts in shallow bodies of water, such as riversbecause it is less likely to ground. The flat hull also makes the boat more stable in calm water, which is good for hunters and anglers. However this design becomes less stable fflat choppy water. This is because it causes Used Aluminum Flat Boats For Sale 60 the boat to travel on the water, instead of through it, as a boat with a rounded or V-shaped hull.
Flat hulls are simple to construct, making them popular with boat-building hobbyists. In Britain they came to popular notice during the planned French invasion of Britain inwhen a large-number of flat-bottomed boats were prepared by the French to ferry their invasion force across the channel and a number were destroyed during the British Raid on Le Havre.
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Five Affordable Trawlers Under 40 Feet. What Hull Shape is Best? Best Boat Brands. Complete rubbish. Hood never had green bridge decks. Please be sure to throw them away and use our detailed Hood painting instructions instead. Summary: A good kit for its day , but it looks its age. Fortunately, it can be built-up into a good respresentation of Hood with some aftermarket parts and a good deal of scratchbuilding.
This kit can be found in man stores, or ordered from any of several online model retailers. It is also available directly from the Airfix website. I have a fair amount of sympathy for this kit, since it was the first kit that won me a prize in a model contest, many ages ago. It represents the Hood somewhere between and The hull is quite nice, but the bilge keels are missing.
The level of detail is pretty decent for its day. The planking on the deck was pretty impressive for its time. The main turrets aren't too bad, but they need a bit of reshaping at the front. I don't like the way the lower parts of the superstructure are implemented. The bulkheads are attached to the deck. This can make both the deck and the bulkheads difficult to paint. Overall, I'd say it is pretty good for its age, and it can be fixed up pretty easily.
If built OOB, this kit will represent Hood as pre refit. Ship still has its 4. A little extra effort goes a long way on this model. Addition of side platforms on X turret, extra detailing on primary and secondary turrets are easy to add. Addition of PE a big help as always, but model will still look good with detailing and rigging. Series 2, issued in The boxtop says the models are intended to " Happily, this was not the case!
The kit consists two sprues containing 64 well molded grey plastic parts depicting the ship as she appeared at the time of her loss in May The model, though measuring a mere eight and one half inches in length, is accurately proportioned and packed with detail.
The hull, waterlined with a solid bottom, is correct in overall shape, taper and shear. The single-piece main deck is provided as a separate piece.
Detail on the deck is excellent, including a multitude of hatches, bitts, vents, breakwaters, petite ground tackle, and some amazingly delicate deck planking. The raised planking is especially notable, some of the finest I've seen in any scale. However, there is an odd discrepancy with the inclusion of torpedo lookout and searchlight platforms on the foremast.
Although the fit of the model is correct for the Battle of the Denmark Strait, both these platforms had been removed before Thus the model is incorrect as is, although you could still use them if you make a few modifications to depict the ship earlier in her career. Another inaccuracy is the shelter deck , depicted as a straight line rather than with the angular notches the structure actually had.
This can be easily fixed, though. Armament is mixed. Main turrets are good, except that the barrels look too thin; I replaced them with hypodermic needles.
The four inch twins are simplified shapes and the barrels are also too long, but they're useable. The 8-barrelled 2pdr pom-poms and UP projectors are very good, but the 0. Other parts vary in quality from good to excellent; masts and cranes are proportional and accurate, and the fire control directors are first-rate.
Given the perennial popularity of the Hood in all scales, it is surprising that Airfix never reissued it Detail: medium - Appearance: good. Was clearly the best Airfix ship when it appeared. Lots of very small parts. Side scuttles a bit ugly. Some of the portholes are a bit large, drill them out with a constant sized bit it has the "flash suppressors" on the main guns, should be sanded down and the bilge keels are too long, easily trimmed down but otherwise, a nice kit.
Series 6, ? A very nice kit with more deck details than any other Airfix ship. The camouflage scheme is from the first months of KGV's career. Very detailed. It portrays the ship more or less "as built", with UP launchers on B and Y turrets, and the aircraft catapult amidships. The de-gaussing cable on the hull specific to the KGV herself is well done, but it must be removed if you want to convert the kit to portray another ship in the class.
My real only criticism is that the 5. The deck details might be a little overdone, and they are difficult to paint. The kit dates back to the mid s. All of these were previously sold as individual kits except for the E-boats which I think were sold as a pair. There is an instruction booklet containing all the assembly instructions and colour schemes detailed below. The painting instructions are fuller and more detailed than previously, and offer several variants, and are referenced to Humbrol paints.
Each type of ship has a descriptive text longer than that in the original kits, and there is an overview of the KM at the front.
Decals are provided on quite a lavish scale but all feature the swastika-less version of the ensign. Overall: an interesting idea and a bit of a cheap gamble for Airfix, given that they are all old kits , but they have made an effort to provide better instructions and more variety. It will be interesting to see if anyone has the space to make the obvious diorama of a Channel port.
It's only a shame that Heller never made the older destroyers and torpedo boats, to make the set really complete. JRC , review dated 15 October, Series 1, ; No of parts: 73; Guns elevate:? Later editions have Exocet lauchers included. Guide to detailing in Airfix magazine guide 7.
It's not bad. It's got a decent level of detail, and comes with a choice of 4. No Ikara launchers or Sea Wolf launchers, though. Scores over the Matchbox Ariadne in every way, except for the lack of mine doors in the stern. Those are easy enough to cut into the plastic. I consider this to be the best of the passenger ship kits.
Editor's Note: Series 1, Historical Ships. The forward missile launcher should be different from the other two. Series 2, on box No of parts: 92; Guns elevate: yes.
Detail: high - appearance: good LS. Much like the Manxman kit and a good companion to the other highly detailed Airfix kits like Prinz Eugen and Repulse. Detail on mine rails, gun shields, deck , bridge structures and torpedo tubes is excellent. Light AA weapons are poor and there some ejector pin marks in hard to fix places. This model is of the flotilla leader Z Z28 was unique among the Narviks in having two superfiring main guns forward others had only one single - and later on most units a double turret and a large deckhouse and two superfiring guns aft all others had three guns aft, with two on the after deckhouse.
Number of AA guns increased during the war. An interesting kit indeed. This kit is a joy to build. The seams are very nice and the engraved detail is nothing short of awesome. The detail rivals that of the Repulse. The detail of the single 5. With some research and scratch building you could easily build a complete and very accurate flotilla using this kit. Generally sound but needs a lot of detailing. Guns are clumsier than the Hood's.
The kit represents Nelson as she was in but sadly all the light AA batteries are missing! The latest one I bought in was actually in better shape than the one I bought some 15 years ago but the mold is now so old that some of the few details were lost. There is a article how to convert the kit to a pre-war variant in "Scale Model International" March A bit lacking in detail, and the main turrets are the wrong shape, but you can make a decent model out of it.
I suspect that they meant to portray the Nelson in , which could explain the lack of 20mm AA guns. The 40mm Bofors and 2 pounder "pom pom" AA guns are present. This Nelson is about average for the Airfix kits I've seen, with a rather waxy plastic and crude details. There are some exceptions, e.
Not as crisp as Repulse. Note that on some versions a confusing line on the instructions seems to indicate the platform with 2 x 40mm quads should be placed cantilevered from the top of the superstructure instead of on top of the conning tower.
Scale Modeler magazine actually built theirs that way! The detail is great and the fit is quite nice except at the stern where a gap is left. It seems the kit represents the Prinz Eugen in the '41 time frame. So if a later time is desired additional light AA guns must be added. The detail put into the 4. This is the only small scale with elevating 8" guns!
Revell take note!!!! The 4. The superstructure very accurately scaled and while the Revell kits does a good job or accurately displaying the overall super structure, I personally believe this kit is superior to Revell's version. First the flaws. Removing it is not the problem. It is the repair afterwards.
I messed mine up on my first attempt. After you remove the molded on plastic. In photos of the ship, it appears a metal plate was actually mounted on the deck as a chain slip, so this corrects two errors. The side armor is wrong. First it is too narrow, too long and does not blend in correctly.
Fixing this is a real challenge. I left mine in hopes nobody smart enough would notice. Cutting it off and fabricating a new one would require thinning the sides dangerously. Bilge Keels. Way too thick. Sanding them off will penetrate the hull a little. Applying a thin piece of styrene strip to the inside of the hull covering the indention. After I sanded away the keel, putty and sanded it to shape.
Just add thin styrene strip to replace the molded on keel. As mentioned earlier, the fit at the stern is not good. The deck is to short and leaves a gap about a full millimeter wide.
The bow fits a little better. Filling will be required to fix the stern. Now the good! So if a later time is desired light AA guns must be added. I really like the effort put into the 4. This is the only small scale with elevating guns!
The superstructure seems very accurate. I personally believe this kit to far superior to Revell's version. I emailed Airfix and there are apparently on plans to re-release this kit. Because of the detail of this model and the after market products available you have the options of numerous variants.
I discovered that the twin 5. First you have to cut off the barrels. I added. A little putty and sanding was required to finish the shape. A friend has a great vacuum forming machine and in a jiffy I had ten other projects to triple 5.
Other than this the ships structure is unchanged. Since the triple 6in turrets are a little lighter than the twin 8in ones the AA armament is a little heavier. Use the previous book reference. This kit begs to ask, what happened to the other kits of this era. The Bismarck and Graf Spee are so poorly researched. I have a remark to RDF's review.
One would reconsider aircraft catapults on Seydlitz CL. According to plans I have, there would have been two catapults, one between funnel and mast as in conventional Hipper-class heavy cruiser, and another one aft the mast. Issued between and , the series was apparently not very successful as it was soon discontinued and none of the ships was ever reissued. That's a shame, because they were nicely done.
Though designed as a clip-together wargaming model, it is finely detailed and compares favorably with with many larger scale kits. Hull, superstructure, and funnel shapes are correct and capture the ship's elegant lines well.
The waterlined hull particularly is well done, accurate in shape, taper and shear; better, in fact, than the earlier Hood or Bismarck units of the series. There is even a degaussing cable! The separate single piece main deck is also well done with tiny hatches, vents, bitts, a breakwater, ground tackle Torpedo launchers are molded integrally with the deck, but in this small scale they look good. My only gripe with the deck is the total lack of planking detail, which is strange considering that the earlier Hood and Bismarck kits in the series had excellent planking.
Even stranger is that planking is present on some of the superstructure decks! Fortunately all this is not that visible once painted. Other odd design choices are evident with the armament. The same with the 37mm twins: outstanding on the Bismarck, mediocre on the Prinz Eugen. Go figure. Other parts are good to excellent. Masts, cranes, searchlights, and boats are good although there should be more boats , as are the spherical hooded 4m antiaircraft directors.
The delicately rendered Even with some less than stellar design choices with the decks and armament, Airfix's little Prinz Eugen builds into an appealing, accurate rendition of that most graceful ship. The only injection-molded model of this ship we're likely to see, so you have to work with it. Fortunately, you don't have to take it too far.
The shapes look very good to me and the assembled hull looks positively huge , and there are no solid lifelines to remove. Ship is in later configuration with stabilizer fins. Most of the windows on the superstructure are represented by simple raised squares; sand them off and make decals instead. The davits do not line up properly with the promenade windows, so fill the locator holes and place them manually boats should hang above prom deck window sections, with davits mounted in between window sections.
The boats look marvelous and are molded as open boats - consider making resin copies for your Revell Queen Mary. Throw away the kit decals, especially on the re-issue; the typeface for the name on the bow is way off.
Not a bad kit by any means, and looks easy to improve. Series 6, ; No of parts: ; Decals included. Participiated in the Falkland war. The model represents the ship in her original appearance, with the white funnel and without the later additions on Signal Deck.
The problem is fit. There are many small, but annoying gaps that must be filled. The two hull halves do not align well. It's not that hard to correct, but I've seen better.
Still, it looks like this will be a very impressive model when completed. Detail: high - Appearance: very good. Portrays the ship in her final configuration.
A real beauty. Wonderfully detailed. I did not have the fit problems that Leif had. This is arguably Airfix's best ship kit ever. Now all we need is a Renown to go with her Well, it's not perfect but almost. There are minor fitting problems with the deck and some of the scuttles on the superstructure are missing, but otherwise it is just wonderful.
The detailing of the side armour can't be described, it has to be seen. And the deck has even the deck camber curvature! The model and camouflage represents Repulse as she was when she sunk Dec Really an excellent kit. OK Terrible superstructure. The deck houses including the platforms are in two parts, the boundary goes right in the middle of the platforms.
Clumsy masts. Guide to detailing in Airfix magazine May Put plastic card on top and sides to represent box shape; etch the cell divisions. This kit was so close to being good. The rest of the ship is not bad. The ship is missing all it's Whip antennas. This may seem trivia, but think. First there are the easiest things to add to almost any kit. Second, they are pretty easy to research and last; when you see a picture of any ship you can't help but notice all the antennas everywhere!
It's only a minor nuissance. I do like the hull. Bilge keels are nicely molded in. The separate propeller guards look nice. If you're looking to do conversions, the hull's got the later bow-mounted SQS sonar dome as opposed to the earlier keel mounted style That's fine for the Rommel, or the other Bundesmarine Adams class, but if you're going to try to convert it to a USN Adams class, then you'll have to either do DDG through 24, or perform some major surgery on the bow.
I missed that one! As Randy points out above, this kit has lots of conversion potential. Editor's Note: portrays the Royal Sovereign, possibly as she appeared in This miniscule Santa Maria molding originated as a Gowland Shipyard "Ships in Bottles" release in ; it was among the first injection molded plastic model ships ever marketed.
Airfix also issued it in without the bottle as the second unit of their Series 1 "Historical Ship" kits. It was issued again by Addar as one of their "Super Scenes" in a bottle in In the early s Airfix also reissued the kit, this time reworked with a full hull and stand replacing the sea base and acetate ratlines. This revised version was produced in the s by Heller kit , in brown plastic as well. Out of production as of , the kit can still be found fairly easily on online auctions and at model swap meets.
Columbus' Santa Maria Holy Mary is one of the world's most famous ships, but her exact appearance remains a matter of conjecture and debate. Some experts believe the Mariagalante "Party-Girl Mary", the ship's original name before Columbus changed it more the politically correct Santa Maria was a Portuguese style nao , others that it was Flat Bottom Boats For Sale Bc a carabela caravel.
The model's hull shape matches that reconstruction fairly well. For a kit this old and this small, the little Santa Maria is not bad. The separate one-piece deck has delicate raised plank markings, stairs, and a hatch. The hull and deck are simplified, but the details present are well rendered and the unit is so tiny that the effect is good.
Unfortunately, everything above the deck is out of scale. The mainmast, for example, is some 25 scale feet too high. The too tall, too thick masts support massive wind-filled sails that overpower the little hull. The flags printed on a separate sheet of paper are also too large. If you want an early pre-Atlantic bow Scharnhorst, this is the one. Kit dates back to about This is Scharnhorst as built, not in WW2 shape. I bought a new one three years ago and converted it to Gneisenau The kit was in the same good shape as my first in or The bilge keel is missing like in most old Airfix kits.
I have two of these and in both cases I was not particularly pleased. My problem probably stems from my earlier exposure to the Airfix Repulse , Narvik and Prinz Eugen models. The last being my stimulus for purchasing the Scharnhorst. I expected this model to have all the excellent products gun mounts of the previous two German models. That of course was not the case. So lets start there. All the secondary and AA gun calibers are way below Airfix standards.
How this happened has to be a mystery. On the other hand the main guns are very nice. A little void of detail but nice depending on the source, maybe even better than the Revell kit. The 01 level seems to have an excessive amount of overhang. From the photos I have seen, this feature seems to be exaggerated. The deck engraving here seems a bit crude as well. The entire superstructure seems to have suffered the exact same fate during development at that of the Graf Spee.
It seems squat and out of proportion to the rest of the ship. The Scharnhorst class was a sleek and beautiful design, this is not evident in this kit the, to the degree of the Revell model. Over all the kit may actually fall into the poor category with the Bismarck. There's a good article on building and converting this kit in the June issue of Airfix Magazine, pg GOOD I like this one.
It's pretty good for its day. It's not perfect by any stretch of the imagination, but the basics are all there. The bilge keels are missing, as are two of the four propellers. Superstructure levels are molded into the decks below them, which can make painting difficult.
Lattice masts are not that great, photo-etch would be better but OK for their day. This ship also has some excellent modification potential. Airfix Magazine's March issue has a good article on conversions.
Guns and many superstructure parts can be obtained from an Airfix Belfast. Like the H. This is a model of Tiger before the conversion. Lines of rafts included. This is the Bismarck model with two torpedo-tubes added, no other changes. At least sometimes, packages came with two ships.
Series 1, Issued as a pair, each Tribal consists of 20 cleanly molded gray plastic parts. As with others in the series, the waterlined hull is a single part with a solid bottom and separate single-piece main deck.
There is even part of the undercut below the stern, as if the pattern maker had begun to produce a full hull model and then abandoned the effort part way through. Otherwise things look good.
There are simplifications one would expect in this scale such as the molded to the deck torpedo tubes and solid open bridge , but there are no basic accuracy problems. Surface detailing is delicate and restrained. The four 4. This is a nice little kit, and one of the very few injection plastic destroyers ever issued in this scale. The first big Airfix ship. The kit is sound, but low in detail.
Needs a lot of detailing to look good. The mast and the guns are clumsy. Detail is decidedly lacking. No bilge keels. Good painting instructions would have helped. This kit is said to be about 22 inches long when complete.
It is said to portray the ship in This kit represents the Warspite after her refit. The biggest problems are the bow, kit has a bulb bow instead of a ram bow and the quarterdeck. Once again, there is the problem of the "flash suppressors" on the main guns.
Sand them off. Superstructure is decent, gun turrets are nice, and the casemate 6" guns are fragile, but nice. A very good model for its time. Series 9, Classic Historical Ships Said to portray the ship in I have one half built, it's not too bad, needs some filling etc.
Includes a Sherman tank from the regular Airfix line. The end of the Cold War has brought about some confusion in nomenclature. Editor's Note: Presumably a close relative of the Gearing, below. For comparison, check out the Skywave Sumner class. Not the very best I've ever seen, but reasonably good, and the price is right.
Superstructure detail is a bit lacking, but the hull is pretty nice. Watch out for sink holes, though! Like its Skywave competitor, this kit give the builder the option of using either the second set of torpedo tubes aft, or a third 40mm quad mount.
Unlike the Skywave kit, it gives the builder the option of building the "DDR" radar picket variant. This is a very basic model, with very minimal detail. There are about 50 pieces in the kit, and the instructions are a one page blow up diagram.
The instructions have some suggestions for ease of assembly. The kit does not include decals. The basic model is molded as a waterline hull, with the deckhouses and depth charge racks, molded in place. The superstructure and bulkheads have absolutely no detail to it, just a series of flat side moldings. There are anchor chains molded in place, and the stern 20mm tub, but that's it. The builder must add the upper decks to the deckhouses, as well as the gun tubs.
The dual 5" mounts aren't too bad, and the dual 40mm are also finely cast. But they're too tall. They stand too high on their pedestals. The tops of the guns are level with the midway point of the funnels. And the single 20mm are also too tall. Those stand just about as tall as the dual 5" mounts. It is recommended that they be shortened to be less conspicuous or pilfer them from a Skywave set.
The tripod mast amidship is cast very finely, as is the mainmast. But the main mast's radar was cast as a see-through piece, and in this scale, it's very difficult to make it realistic.
In addition, while the 5" director base is OK, the radar screens are even taller than the 5" mount. Lastly, the torpedo mounts are cast pretty well, and one mount even has the 5" flash protector housing.
Overall it's not a bad kit, and could use some dressing up with a brass set. But it's nowhere near as detailed as the Skywave Gearing class destroyer. Looking at the hulls side by side, the freeboard on the Albatross hull looks better. On the Skywave hull, it's pretty shallow. Also, thesheer line on the Albatross hull is more pronounced, whereas that on the Skywave hull is more gentle.
The Skywave hull is generally a flatter hull. Editor's Note: For comparison, check out the Skywave Gearing class. Editor's Note: Reissue of the old Casadio mold. Read Tim Reynaga's review of the Revell re-issue of this kit. From about to , AMT was owned by Matchbox, and issued a few Matchbox kits under their own label. After a confusing period of lease arrangements, Round 2 Corp.
AMT plastic car models still show up in hobby shops, but they are manufactured in China. Editor's Note: Reissue of Matchbox kit. This is a reissue of the s Matchbox kit of Exeter as she appeared during her famous encounter with the Graf Spee off the Rio de la Plata in Like its Matchbox predecessor, this kit is molded in two colors, a dark green and a light grey. Moldings are sharp with most detail raised.
Unlike the Japanese waterline series kits of the era, the hull is split into right and left halves, with the decks and base plate separate. This arrangement unfortunately leaves a long, prominent seam where the main deck meets the hull.
Worse, the thin, slender hull sides are vulnerable to warpage Once these challenges are addressed, though, the hull looks very good. Detail is decent with the multitude of portholes on the hull represented as tiny raised circles. The kit also captures the distinctive forward knuckle pretty well, a feature often missed. Superstructures, especially the aft superstructure and hangar, are a bit simplified and almost bereft of detail, but the open sides on the bridge are well represented.
Small parts vary in quality. The anchors, secondary guns and masts are rather nice, but the crane, Walrus aircraft, floats, davits and boat mountings are mediocre to poor. I would also have preferred some depiction of planking on the main deck, which is completely smooth.
Still and all, the kit assembles into a good representation of Exeter. The Axxx serial numbers look like they are out of a catalogue, and do not represent the letter codes on the model boxes. The numerals are of course correct. I don't understand why, on destroyers, the kit instructions mostly do not agree with the colour instructions Aoshima must have the lowest standard of quality control of any Japanese model firm.
US importers should take this into account when pricing the kits! I cannot agree more with the GH's comment above. The price-to-value ratio is just too high for most Aoshima kits. It seems only worth it, if the kit is the only one for a particular subject you are looking for.
Not the greatest things you've ever seen, but not the worst either. Amagi was doomed to never saw combat, except on the receiving end of USN airpower. She was bombed during outfitting and rolled over during an aerial attack in late July Unlike the Pit-Road kit, Aoshima's kit is based on the older Unryu kit with minor modifications. Fine Molds has made a separate photo-etch set to enhance the details.
Editor's Note: See also notes under Hatsuharu-class. FAIR Good hull and superstructure. Lots of flash, and some heavy and light AA guns were not fully formed.
Discard twin 25mm. Trim main gun barrels and replace masts. Will make a good model. Fit is late war. Note there has been an announcement by Aoshima of a newly tooled Bismarck to replace the above kit sometime in April of The supposed stock number is It can't help but be better than this kit.
This is an all plastic kit molded in medium gray except for the red plastic waterline plate. The basic shape of the hull is OK and maybe the turrets but everything else is just awful. There is little to no molded in surface detail. The deck is divided into three ill fitting parts that left gaps in the main deck in two places that were very difficult to fix. The rest of the parts fit poorly and were either clunky or over scale or both.
The AA battery and ship's boats are especially bad. The model depicts Chitose in her seaplane tender configuration before she was converted to a CVL in Above average for Aoshima, this kit is comparable to contemporary offerings by Hasegawa or even some of the less inspired Tamiya efforts.
The hull shape is good, with convincingly replicated portholes and anti torpedo blisters on the sides. Decks have delicate linoleum retaining strips, ground tackle, and various other details accurately molded in. An interesting feature is alternate stern parts to depict either the as built standard stern or the special modified opening stern fitted to Chiyoda to deploy midget submarines. Chitose probably didn't have this modification, but the stern and a minisub are included anyway.
These flush-decked ships had quite a bit going on topside with ventilators, boats, cranes, catapults, seaplanes, and assorted plane handling gear in evidence. All of this was fairly well designed with a minimum of seams and, rare for Aoshima, crisp molding with only a few sink marks!
The foredeck and fantail are separate parts, but they fit fairly well so this doesn't create any problems. The bridge structure is especially good, with four well fitting levels and even a representation of windows. Smaller parts are nothing special, but acceptable.
Recent releases have contained Leviathan upgrade sets which include much improved weapons, aircraft, searchlights, boats and other parts which make this basically good kit even better. You can spot the new issues by the ill-fitting box; Aoshima deepened the lower box to accomodate the extra sprues, but the original smaller boxtop is retained, leaving a gap at the bottom. I built my Chitose in the days before photoetch, but another worthwhile upgrade would be the Gold Medal Models photoetch IJN Auxiliary Ship set which replaces many of the injection molded masts, cranes, catapults, and girders so prominent on this ship.
This set, complementing the competently rendered basic kit parts, could make this a really standout model.
Kit comes with standard tree of IJN aircraft although she was not fitted out with arresting gear or catapults. Primarily used to transport aircraft. All three carriers of the class conversion were sunk by US subs. Nice hulland superstructure, nice coamings. Superstructure is undetailed, all AA guns are oversize and should be replaced by Leviathan sets. Main gun barrels need to be cleaned up. Light AA around bridge is wrong, should be two pairs each position not just one.
Likewise, two twin AA needed extra aroundfunnels. Otherwise, model accurately represents Fuso in The box art shows the ship correctly, interestingly. Presumably, this kit has been issued as:. Good basic hull, but lots of sink holes to repair. Deck good without raised painting lines. Coaming thin enough, but guns poor. Luckily 2 Leviathan sets provided to replace all small parts AA guns, searchlights, boats etc.
Overall shape and guns OK, octuple 2 pdr pompoms are trash. Some sink holes, easily filled, and except for masts all parts are acceptable. Flash is also easily removed.
OK Nice hull and superstructure. Replace all small parts with Leviathan sets. Redo masts. Torpedo tubes are poor, as are all gun barrels. Kit represents ship late in war. Sister ships Kuma and Nagara are also available in different fits.
Kit Parts: This is an injection molded plastic kit. Most parts are provided in medium gray plastic with clear parts for windows and a black sprue for the display base. A small sheet of photo etch is provided for jackstaffs and platform supports, no photo etch for cranes, catapults, rails or other details is provided. Like Hasegawa and Fujimi, Aoshima has gotten into the supplementary parts business and provides at extra cost photo etch sets to further detail this kit.
In addition the kit also provides a flag sheet, poly caps for rotating guns, anchor chain and some metal screws to fix the finished model to a base. All parts are clean and crisply molded with excellent surface detail. This too is a first rate kit that will please just about any modeler.
The deck is broken into pieces that conform to the varied heights of the hull halves so joints should not be a problem. Painting will be more difficult than a Fujimi kit as much of the deck detail is molded on.
Hull is divided into two halves and uses a bracing system with traverse bulkheads similar to those found in the Hasegawa and Fujimi kits with one critical difference. Provision has been made to waterline this vessel. Incised lines go across the hull pieces at the waterline allowing the modeler to easily cut the lower hull off. Hull detail is decent with an attempt being made to indicate plating, however the lines are continuous with no vertical joints indicated.
Weapons, aircraft and equipment are nicely rendered and on a par with the newest issues. While there are, thankfully, no Aztec steps you will want to replace the provided plastic inclined stairs with photo etch. You may or may not be satisfied with the plastic catapult and crane. I thought they were just fine. I believe that most modelers will be more than happy to pick up some inclined ladders and railing in photo etch and skip the more expensive upgrades for this kit.
Directions: large format black and white exploded line drawings and photos of the completed model in a multi-page booklet with most text in Japanese.
Color call outs appear to be for Creos Aqueous and Mr Color paints. Painting instructions are provided by a huge, poster sized color rendition of the model. Packaging: Colorful but thin cardboard box into which all the parts have been tightly fitted with a thin cardboard buffer for the PE and to keep the parts from shifting too much in the box.
All parts are bagged so plastic rash is minimized. The system works very well and no parts were damaged in my kit. Excellent box top art is provided as well as photos on the sides of the completed model. All in all the exterior packaging is pleasing and makes you want to buy this kit unlike the simply awful photos found on the exterior bottom of the recently released Zvezda Dreadnought.
Aoshima in the past produced many a dog of a kit, however, the new issues from this company show huge improvement in casting and attention to detail. These are world class kits. As to kit parts and quality please see my review of Aoshima , Kinu. A sister ship, Tama, is available in a later war fit. While the kits are similar they are not identical by any means.
The ships look somewhat alike. The Nagaras had a greater displacement tons to tons and they were about 10 meters longer and slightly wider than the Kumas. Layout and armament were very similar. These two classes of ships made up almost half of the IJN light cruiser fleet. Some parts are off-scale. Make sure that you dry fit ALL parts before glueing.
Some scratch building is needed to make a presentable model. Landing deck has raised parts to aid painting -- these should be preferably sanded down. Make a note of the patterns they are correct , and then sand away -- mask to reproduce the patterns. Editor's Note: See also notes under Kiev-class. Hull has a detailed deck, but portholes have to be drilled yourself. Bridge detail is also lacking, but all coamings are acceptably thin.
Triple light AA is good, but the twins which the kit requires are poor. Keep triples for spares. Masts too thick, and most parts have a lot of easily removable flash. Makes a good model. This is an all plastic kit molded in medium gray except for the included waterline plate. There is no photo etch included.
This kit is just awful. The shape of the hull is wrong, the deck detail is poor. The assembly process leaves a gap in the deck from the poorly fitted bow piece. The 20 mm guns are so hugely out of scale that they look like Roman shields with spears sticking out of the middle. There is practically no surface detail on the gun turrets and superstructure parts, the main battery turrets are the wrong shape.
The cranes and catapults are solid castings with little detail. The only thing going for this kit is that it is cheap. A summary in two words: stay away. FAIR Basic hull and bridge, portholes need drilling, deck is good though.
Some flash to be removed. Light AA poor, gunhouses basic but look accurate. Good basic hull, less sink holes than Hiryu , deck has raised painting detail though but very nice detail.
Thin coamings, poor small parts but 2 Leviathan sets remedy this. Editor's Note: The kit has been re-issued by Minicraft. The re-issue was reviewed by Tim Reynaga. OK Hull fine, but fittings look clumsy. Coamings too thick, AA guns reasonable, but main guns need work to make them look realistic.
Boats are best covered! Raised detail on flight deck in place of decals is not a successful idea either. Time to retool or upgrade this one.
Lots of putty needed on the upper hull and deck, fit is rather poor, and there are unfortunately sink holes in awkward places on main parts. Do yourself a favour and acquire references before building this one; it doesn't match up to pictures of the reputedly same ship I have seen. Deck is also too thick. Light carrier converted from passenger liner Kasuga Maru. Note: this is the very first issue of the Takao by Aoshima and has it's roots in the late s or early s so the molding of the parts reflects that time period.
A very well detailed new tooling of this kit has been released by Aoshima as kit Please also see Skywave kit W of the Takao.
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