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After giving up the lead and losing both races, Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli now has four races to win the Cup. The New Zealanders only need two.

In a barn on a farm in Lancashire was my old wooden Tideway dinghy, neglected for years. I brushed the straw off her and we took ourselves off to France together.

People warm to the lack of pretension of an old dinghy. So I returned to England hugely smitten once again by dinghy cruising, but also convinced that it was high time I bought a larger dinghy. There are limits to the abilities of any 12ft 3. There is surprisingly little choice of modern dinghies suitable for coastal cruising though � particularly the way I do it, which involves regular leaps into the boat from tall quaysides, or coiling down 30m ft lengths of seaweed-encrusted rope into the bottom boards.

Something like a Tideway in fact, but bigger. There was at least one boat around that met my specification: the Ilur class dinghy. Virtually unknown this side of the Channel, it has a loyal following in France. Whereas modern dinghies are designed for windward speed at all costs, the longshore sailors who worked from open sailing boats in all weathers were more interested in a sturdy boat that would lie calmly in a heavy sea while the sail was lowered to reef, and did not need constant attention while nets were set or lines hauled.

Voile Aviron is also the name of a lively French e-mail discussion group, and I posted a message on it asking for help in buying an Ilur. This resulted in a firm lead on an available boat, so a few weeks later I arrived in France with a trailer lighting board, an international money order for rather less than the asking price, to leave room for haggling, and a wad of Euros to make up the difference.

In the UK you can still buy a small boat with just a handshake. Not in France, where official forms must be signed. Now all I had to do was learn how to sail her. Vivier designed the Ilur with a choice of rigs, the traditional French misainier rig � a single lugsail set on an unstayed mast right forward � and a more conventional sloop with standing lug and jib.

The misainier is much the more romantic and popular, and Avel Dro is a pretty typical example. Her rigging, taken directly from workboat practice, is incredibly simple and admirably robust.

The well-raked wooden mast is held up by a rope looped backwards and forwards around two substantial wooden belaying pins in the bows. Thermal breezes are caused by heat reducing atmospheric pressure over the land, and they like to blow towards the shore, then veer so that the land is on their left.

East of Cotentin, this will encourage stiffer NE winds and more rough water at those harbour entrances, although that scenario is ideal for sailing westward. Further west, warm sunshine often generates a northerly breeze blowing around the end of Brittany. Strong east winds are generally associated with low pressure areas over the Continent, and in summer these lows cause trouble if they track north across the Channel, typically producing thunderstorms with sudden squalls, heavy rain and then a wind shift to west.

The drying anchorage at Herm Harbour is perfectly sheltered from north east winds. During strong winds from east or west, the sea state in the English Channel becomes somewhat rougher when the tidal stream is flowing to windward but the wildest water occurs in the tidal races, notably off Portland and around Alderney.

They also kick up a fuss when the streams flow against incoming swell, even when the wind is light. Muscular Atlantic swell is most likely to be encountered west of Cotentin, where it occasionally pounds the harbour entrances at places like Carteret, and particularly around NW Brittany.

Shorter swell waves also come south through the Straits of Dover when strong northerlies blow down the North Sea. Most sailors know that there is no point in trying to continually compensate for the current by steering so that the boat tracks down the rhumb line. It is much better to estimate the net tidal vector, with east and west flows partly cancelling out, and then set a course to offset it.

For each hour I normally plot the GPS position and also the course and logged distance from the previous fix. The difference shows our actual drift plus leeway, which may disagree with tidal atlas figures and enables us to fine-tune our tactics. Last time we crossed from Salcombe to Guernsey, we had planned to go around the south of the island. But after several hours of a belting broad reach we realised that we had a good chance of holding our flood tide to the northern end, and finally saved a couple of hours by going around that way and down the Little Russel to St Peter Port with the ebb.

Once we passed several groups of Channel swimmers, with escort boats, that were literally crawling across the traffic separation scheme.

The Coastguard had broadcast warnings and huge container ships were meekly lining up to pass between the groups. Broad reaching for Guernsey, with a fair tide. This could possibly be because a couple of accidents have led to well-publicised prosecutions of merchant skippers, or because some yachts use AIS to call up ships and clarify their intentions.

So long as GPS is working, navigation in fog is no longer the problem it once was, but for many sailors a combination of fog and shipping is the ultimate horror. Firstly, no matter what electronic aids are available, keep a good lookout on deck and avoid unnecessary noise.

If a fast yacht or powerboat comes out of the fog bank it may not have shown up on AIS or radar but an alert watchkeeper may well hear it, or see it in time to take avoiding action. If a metre yacht crossing ahead of a Panamax container ship is cracking along at 6 knots, she will be in the direct path of the ship for only 15 seconds, and also has a chance of taking evasive action.

Travelling hopefully is all very well but failing to arrive in France would seriously spoil the effect. In practice, the problem is the other way around: although the hazards are real enough, the vast majority of small boats that set off across the Channel do arrive safely but some crossings prove decidedly stressful for all concerned. In some family crews a few members even prefer to cross by ferry before re-joining their yacht on the other side.

That may be an attempt to avoid seasickness but in many instances it also seems to be a reaction to frightening stories about commercial shipping, possibly compounded by previous bad experience when a change in the weather turned a straightforward crossing into a violent thrash.

The old gated basin at Morlaix has pontoon moorings for visiting yachts. My first three cross-Channel cruises as a skipper were around 40 years ago, in a Hurley 22 with a family crew of four, including two toddlers. We had no GPS or even Decca, and initially no VHF, but we always arrived safely, although there were some unpleasant conditions and we gradually developed an appreciation of how to de-stress a passage so that it was enjoyable, even when circumstances conspired against us.





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