diy wood canvas, diy wood canvas Suppliers and Manufacturers at myboat129 boatplans Building a One-Off Wood & Canvas Canoe by Alex Comb Off the form! Alex Comb removes a new canoe from a rather spare form. If you want a form that takes up a fraction of the space of a normal form, read on. Figure 1. Screwing the ribbands to the last station. *Twenty-?ve years ago, Jack Davis�s article, �Building the Popular Mechanics Canoe�.
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The frame was laid in the center of the canvas and the latter drawn around it. Then with a large needle and strong twine we sewed both edges of the cloth together with long stitches, lacing the canvas over the frame as a shoe is laced over a foot.

This done, the boat was turned deck downward and the canvas was tacked to the keelson. In each case, before driving in a tack a daub of white lead was applied, to water-proof the spot. At the stem and stern a gore narrow triangular piece was cut out of the canvas so as to make it lie smooth on the frame, and white lead was painted in between the overlapping edges.

The canoe was then turned deck upward and the lacing tightened, while we carefully worked out all wrinkles in the cloth.

After tacking the canvas along the gunwales on the outside, it was trimmed off, leaving sufficient margin to be brought over the gunwales and tacked inside. Two triangular pieces were cut out for the decks, and these were lapped over the outer canvas and tacked to the gunwales. A narrow molding along the edge of the boat served to cover the tack heads and added a certain finish to the canoe. A keel plate 2 inches wide and 1 inch thick was attached to the outside of the boat, and then, after wetting the canvas, it was given a coat of white lead and oil.

When this was perfectly dry it was sandpapered and the second coat applied. A cleat nailed to the pillar at each side of the rudder post served to greatly strengthen the joint.

The rudder was hinged to the canoe by a rod, which passed through four brass screw eyes, two threaded into the rudder and a corresponding pair screwed into the stern.

For convenience in steering we ran our tiller rope clear around the boat, through screw eyes in the gunwales and a pulley at the stem, so that the steersman could guide his craft from any point in the canoe. We planned to use our canoe as a sailboat, and had to provide a deep keel, which, for convenience, was made detachable. Screw eyes about twelve inches apart were threaded alternately into opposite sides of the keel plate. Corresponding hooks were attached to the keel in position to hook into the screw eyes, and thus hold the keel firmly in place.

Our boat was fitted with two masts, a mainmast and a mizzen or dandy mast. They were held in brass bands, or clamps, bent around them and secured to the bulkheads, as shown in Fig. The boom was attached to a strap of leather on the mast, and was thus given freedom to swing around in any desired position. The yard was similarly attached, and was raised by a cord, which passed through pulleys at the top and at the base of the mast and extended to a cleat within easy reach of the occupant of the boat.

A double paddle was fashioned from a board 1 inch thick, 6 inches wide and 6 feet long. It will be observed that we used no iron in the construction of this boat.

Uncle Ed has warned us not to, because iron rusts out so easily and is apt to damage both the canvas and the wood with which it is in contact. A canoe is rather a tipsy thing to sail in, as we soon learned, and it was lucky that we could all swim, else our vacation might have ended very tragically; for the very first time Bill and I tried the boat an unexpected gust of wind struck us and over we went.

One thing that bothered us greatly in sailing was the keel of our canoe. It was forever getting twisted, particularly when we tried to make a landing. There were only a few places along the island where the water was deep enough to permit our coming right up to shore without striking the keel.

The fastening was not very strong, and every once and awhile it would be wrenched loose. The matter was made the subject of a special letter to Uncle Ed, and in due time his answer was received.

As usual, he offered a first-class solution of the difficulty. Lee boards, then, are boards which are hung over the lee side of a boat to prevent it from drifting to leeward, and they serve to take the place of a keel or centerboard.

This provided a support to which the lee boards were secured. The lee boards were paddle-shaped affairs of the form and dimensions shown in Fig.

Each paddle near the top was hinged to the end of a board three inches wide and a foot long. The paddle was held at right angles to the board by means of a hook. Each board was fastened with door hinges to a baseboard which extended the width of the boat and was attached to the crosspiece of the canoe by means of a couple of bolts. The bolt heads were countersunk, so that the hinged boards could lie flat over them.

To the top of each lee board two ropes were attached, one passing forward around a pulley and thence back to a cleat within easy reach of the occupant of the canoe, and the other passing directly back to this cleat. By pulling the former rope the lee board was lifted out of the water, while the latter rope was used to swing the board into working position. Figure shows the top view of the canoe Yacht Wood Oil And Gas at this stage of its construction.

The Deck Beams should now be made and put in place, one each side of the cockpit, or fourteen inches from the centre of the canoe see Fig. At this point measure the exact distance between the gunwales, and lay it off upon a four-inch board see Fig.

The top of this piece should be curved as shown in the drawing, and a mortise two inches wide by five-eighths of an inch deep should be cut in the edge for the deck ridge pieces to fit in. As a means of preventing the gunwales from spreading, it is best to dovetail the ends of the deck beams into them see Fig.

Cut a tongue half an inch long and half an inch thick on each end of the beams, as shown in Fig. Then, having prepared the ends, place the beams in the positions they will occupy in the framework, and mark upon the top of the gunwales the shape of the tongues.

Mortise the gunwales at these points Fig. By examining the corners of a drawer you will see clearly how the dovetail joint is made. The Ridge Pieces are strips running from the deck beams to the bow and stern pieces see Figs. For this canoe, they should be made out of a strip two inches wide by five-eighths of an inch thick.

Cut them of correct length to reach from the mortises in the tops of the deck beams to the mortises cut in the tops of the bow and stern pieces.

Mortises two inches wide and a quarter inch deep should be cut along the top of these ridges, as shown in Fig.

Securely screw the ridges in place. Then cut twelve pieces of barrel-hoops for. The Deck Braces, and fit them in the mortises made in the ridge pieces. Screw these in place and bend their ends until they can be fastened to the inside face of the gunwales. The curve of these braces should be the same as that of the deck beams, so it will be possible to put on the deck canvas neatly see Figs. The Cockpit, the frame for which we are now ready to prepare.

First remove the mould, being careful that the framework does not spread in doing so. Then cut two two-inch strips to fit between the deck beams, and fasten one on each side of the cockpit two inches from the gunwale see Fig. When this has been done take the strip eight feet long, four inches wide, and Diy Wood Canoe Rack For Truck Us one-quarter inch thick, procured for the cockpit frame, and bend it around the opening, fastening it to the sides of the deck beams and the side strips.

The top edge of the frame should now be shaved off with a draw-knife, so that it will be on a line with the deck braces at every point see Fig. This is necessary in order to make the curve of the deck around the cockpit the same as elsewhere. The framework of the canoe is now completed, and should be painted and left to dry before you go on with the rest of the work.

The Canvas Covering over the framework without having it wrinkle, but with the help of a boy friend it can be stretched fairly even, and with care and patience may be made to look neat. Turn the framework bottom side up and, after finding the centre of the forty-inch strip of canvas, lay it along the keelson from bow to stern. Smooth it over the surface with your hands, and start a few tacks along the keelson to hold it in place.

As a means of keeping the canvas stretched over the bottom of the framework while working upon it, attach several weights to the edges; then, with your helper on the side opposite you, commence at the middle rib and stretch the canvas down that rib to the gunwales, starting a couple of tacks in the gunwales to hold it in place.

Then work along each rib from the centre of the framework toward the bow, and then from the centre toward the stern, stretching the canvas as tightly as possible, and driving tacks along the gunwales not farther than one inch apart. You will find that the only way to get the canvas on smoothly is by removing the tacks wherever any wrinkles appear and, after restretching it, replacing the tacks. As the tacks will probably have to be removed a number of times during the operation, it is advisable to drive them in but a little way at first.

It is most difficult to make a neat job at the bow and stern, and a few wrinkles will probably remain, no matter how much pains are taken in fitting the canvas, on account of the narrowing of the canoe at these points.

Fill the outer mortise made in the bow and stern pieces with paint, and, after folding the edges of the canvas, tack it in these mortises. Place the tacks as close as their heads will permit, which, together with the paint, will make a joint that water cannot penetrate. Now examine the canoe carefully, and, if you have smoothed out the wrinkles as much as Diy Wood Canoe Rack Plans Tab possible, drive home the tacks and trim the canvas close to the gunwales.

The Deck is much easier to cover. Spread the piece of thirty-inch canvas over it from bow to stern, with the centre of the canvas running along the centre of the deck, and place a tack in it at the bow and another at the stern.

Stretch the canvas in the same manner as when covering the bottom of the framework, and lap it over the gunwales, tacking it along the outer edge. Cut through the canvas at the cockpit, and trim it off so there will be just enough to lap around the cockpit frame. Trim the canvas along the gunwales so that it does not project more than an inch.

A coat of linseed-oil should first be applied to the canvas, to fill the pores and make a good foundation for the paint. Then allow the canvas to dry thoroughly, after which give it a coat of paint,�cream, or whatever color you have selected.

When this has dried, rub it down with pumice-stone or fine emery-paper, and apply a second coat. All that now remains to complete the canoe is the attachment of the cockpit coaming, the keel, bilge-keels, and the outside gunwales.

Take the strip eight feet long, four inches wide, and one-quarter inch thick, which you procured for. The Cockpit Coaming, bend it around the frame of the pit, and cut off the ends so they will join neatly. Then fasten it to the cockpit frame, allowing two inches to project above the deck, and shave off the top edge the same as you did the cockpit frame, so it will be two inches above the deck at every point.

For a small canoe built for paddling only, it is unnecessary to have anything more than a strip fastened to the bottom for. So cut a lattice-strip eight feet in length, and screw it along the bottom of the keelson see Fig. The Bilge-keels are lattice-strips fastened along the sides of the canoe as a protection to the canvas, and should be attached directly over the ribbands. One of these on the centre ribband of each side will be sufficient see Fig. Outside Gunwales should be attached outside of the present ones.

These will cover the joint between the canvas of the deck and the lower portion of the framework. All of these outside strips should be fastened in place with the round-headed screws, after which they should be painted.

Figure shows the canoe completed. A Seat is desirable for the bottom of the canoe, for comfort as well as to prevent your feet from wearing out the canvas. This seat should be movable, so it may be taken out to drain the water from the bottom of the canoe, and may be made as shown in Fig. Batten together two six-inch boards upon their under face and notch the two side edges to fit over the ribs of the framework see Fig. In order to keep your canoe in good condition, do not allow it to remain in the water for any length of time when not using it, as the canvas would soon rot by doing so.

After a spin, pull it out of the water, and turn it upside down to dry; then put it away under cover to remain until again wanted for use. With the greatest of care a boy will puncture his canoe once in a while, so it is a good idea for him to know.

There are several ways of doing this, but the best is by either sewing a piece of canvas over the puncture and then painting it with white lead, or daubing the canvas around the hole with varnish, and then laying a canvas patch over it and varnishing it.

The making of a well-shaped paddle is no easy matter for an amateur to accomplish, so it is advisable for a boy to procure. A Hand-made Single Paddle, such as can be bought for a dollar and a half. This is generally made of selected spruce, with a copper-tipped end, and is nicely finished.

The length of the paddle will depend upon the size of the boy who is going to use it, but should be between four feet six inches and five feet.




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