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Stitch-and-Glue Boat Building - An Illustrated Tutorial - Assembling a Boat Kit

Stitch-and-glue boat buildingalong with the development of epoxy and modern mahogany marine plywood, has revolutionized Stitch And Glue Boat Building Tutorial Quest and revitalized wooden boat building. This method of boat building is not only stronger, lighter, and faster than traditional wooden boat building, but it also takes far less skill.

Here's how a CLC stitch-and-glue kayak is assembled. Of course each model is a little different, but you'll get vuilding idea These drawings, by John Harris, show a Chesapeake You can watch a video of this kayak kit being built from start to finish. Scarf joints, bonded with epoxy, are like a weld; stronger than the surrounding wood.

The bulkheads help stiffen the hull and create watertight compartments. The seams are snaded smooth and filled completely. The deck is fastened down with bronze ring nails while the glue dries. Time to varnish! Sanding and finishing can be expected to take about half of the total time of the project. Relatively few tools are required to build a stitch-and-glue boat.

Here's a list and a little advice. Optional Tools - These are nice to have if you are not starting from a kit. Receive our Boatbuilder Updates for much more! Boatbuilding Supplies. Development Projects. Strip-Planked Kayaks. Camper Hardware. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. Two New Boats for ! New CLC! Watch this boat under construction in our part video. Watch some of our boatbuilding classes in stitch and glue boat building tutorial live great stitch and glue boat building tutorial live videos!

Browse Stitch and glue boat building tutorial live Arrivals �. Even my carpenter stitdh were impressed. Rhode Runner Runabout. Surfing Tandem. Grain Surfboards. TEL tutoria, Boat Plans. Just add varnish You can spend as much time finishing as you want. At minimum, you'll need a coat or three of varnish or paint to protect the epoxy from the sun's rays.

You control the finish quality - when you're ready, go paddling! Cyanoacrylate CA Glue Accelerator - 2oz. Fiberglass Cloth - 6oz.


I determine to some extent together with your evidence about price - however by a indicate we set the sailboard along with a all opposite rigs as well as accessories it is starting to be an glorious suit stitch and glue boat building tutorial live a 18K for the Arthropod. Prior to a find of this vessel this story appeared to not ring loyal for dual causes. This brew of ash as well as immaculate steel will conflict a erosion of beaching distant improved than any fiberglass vessel .

Obviously, keep the bilge dry and most of the possible problems are eliminated. Or, perhaps cold-molded, strip planked, fiberglass, aluminum or steel? Glen-L marine designs has been serving the amateur boat builder since and the business resides in beautiful San Clemente, California. Witt and run our family business. Your Thoughts? One of the better short articles about these two building method.

I also appreciated the comments about encapsulation not being a total answer. It is nice to see an article being able to identify a boat as a throw away.

Smaller boats are easy to build and can be done very cheaply if they are not built like a bank vault! It is nice to see this validated by someone that understands boats!

When I raced hydroplanes, they seldom lived for more than a season, two at most. Then on to the next one. Your email address will not be published.

The Latest. Bubbles in Epoxy A Woodworker is Born. Stitch and Glue or Conventional Plywood Construction? Bow thruster. Hi my name is Sarah. My dad Robert Spinks loved boats and sailing on the Norfolk broads and at sea, he spent many months blood sweat and tears restoring.

Privacy Policy. Advertising Policy. Cookie Policy. I am perfectly aware that the majority of Wooden Boat aficionados are sensible folk.

However, I need to point out that I am an amateur wooden boat enthusiast simply writing in order to try to help other amateur wooden boat enthusiasts. DIY Wood Boat. Scarf Joints. Finishing Your feedback and Comments. Stitch and Glue Fillets. Overlapping Joint. DIY Woodboat Building Questions Woodboat building questions a Forum for wooden boat building, plans, lumber, caulking compounds and other boat building problems.

Worm shoe Sacrificial Protection for Wooden Boats A Worm Shoe is a non structural piece of wood whose 'sole' purpose is to protect the underwater wooden parts of a wooden boat keel, they need checking and replacing regularly. Ring Nails for Marine Fastening. How to use Copper Rivets and Roves construction guide to fasteners on your wooden boat.

How to use Clench Nails, these provide Stitch And Glue Boat Building Book 01 a fast reliable method for fastening small wooden boats. Wood Screws for Boat Building and Repair. Make sure that the Wood that you buy and use is sustainably grown and harvested. Timber, Lumber for Boat Building. Timber Properties A brief guide to timber properties and wood, characteristics such as strength, stiffness and elasticity for choosing lumber for wooden boat building and restoration.

I painted polyester resin onto the shaft and blades, reinforced one side of the blade join with fibreglass cloth, and covered the whole of the one side of each blade with cloth. The end result is a fairly light paddle. It looks good, rows good and is extremely strong. The feathering between the blades is comfortable, and the length of the shaft allows me to get my hands close to the water without Stitch And Glue Boat Building Tutorial Excel having to lean to either side for reach.

I left my offroad vehicle somewhere where I can't find it, so I was stuck with transporting the canoe on the roof of my city car. I cut a "pool noodle" water toy in half, stuck it under the canoe, and strapped the canoe to the roof. It works, is stable and as long as I keep to the speed limit, within comfortable safety parameters.

My 4 yr old daughter got a small swimming vest that looks and functions like a life jacket. For myself, I will invest in a proper life jacket before we go out on any big waters.

I doubt whether she will accompany me there since she can't sit still for that length of time. Safety will always be my first concern. Sea currents, fast moving water, wave height even on inland waters and wind are things that all paddlers should be mindful off. Our boat tracks well enough to enjoy the row. Without the outrigger tracking will of course improve. Turning radius is not small Again, the outrigger plays a big role, but also the fact that the canoe bottom is flat.

It doesn't turn up at either end. I'll use polyester resin again. It costs less than epoxy and for a boat that doesn't live on the water, I'm happy with the long lasting qualities of the resin.

I don't like all the sanding. I'll sand less between layers of fiberglass. But I have a better understanding of when to sand and to what degree. It's very satisfying to see the end result. My advice is to make a decision early on whether you want a showpiece or a functional watercraft.

For a functional craft I could have left out the seats, holds, decks, bulkheads and extra fiberglass on the bottom. Then I would have had the boat in the water in half the time.

But my need for holds and seats necessitated extra work. A possible solution for resin that won't cure is to use an ultraviolet light. I used it successfully when I mixed polyester resin with insufficient catalyst. It was an old s era "black light. Reply 8 months ago.

Hi there! One morning I had to stand in the garage and look at the boat with tears in my eyes. I had to sell it to get some cash to pay the bank. I had intended for this to be a labour of love and use it for many years. But it was not to be! On that morning I strapped the beautiful thing to the roof of my car and drove across the Cape peninsula to a boat shop far away.

I sold it to them. Apparently they lease out props to film companies and they wanted to have this in their catalogue. Unfortunately I do not know the where abouts of the kayak now. But I shed some real tears letting it go. Wow, what a story, I am sad to hear that, especially, that although I had been planning to build a canoe for some time, It is your ibble that motivated me to finally get started.

I will put it up when it is done. I hope your financial position is a bit better now, who knows, perhaps you married a filthy rich heiress :- Thanks for your reply. Ha ha! I am super happy to hear that all those hours I put in resonated with you. What better thing is there for us to inspire each other. Would love to see what you build when it is done. I did build another, smaller boat two years ago. Also with plywood.

Images are attached. I have also since purchased a plastic canoe am I a sell-out Please post your build or just mention it here.

Thanks for posting. I will do so Stefan, I am planning it as a winter project, so that will be november -January. Your new boat looks good as well. I am planning 4 mm sides, 6 mm bottom, and a canou about 4meter long.

It will be more of a Kayak type I guess though. Nice dog! Great project. Designing one's own boat is very satisfying. The double chine is very elegant. The outrigger is also good idea. They work somewhat better if constructed as a hollow plywood float like a mini canoe with a lid. The buoyancy of the float stabilizes it in one direction and the weight stabilizes in the other.

Properly sized the outrigger will allow you to sit on either gunwale. Canoes with outriggers and a leeboard can be sailed. I have used both polyester and epoxy resin but hate the smell of poly. I use "Gorilla glue" for incidentals like gunwale molding. In the past there was a waterproof Weldwood powder glue that worked well. You added flotation chambers to the ends of the canoe, a very important feature.

Plywood stitch and glue hulls are very light and will float when swamped but they have very little natural buoyancy. Bailing one out and getting back in is impossible without the buoyancy chambers. You should be able to get back in over the ends and bail the water out if you flip and swamp. I too am over weight and would not consider a craft with less than about 2 square meters of bottom.

Making a 4. It is common practice to give canoes and other displacement craft a little "rocker" fore and aft. It is said that it makes the paddling easier. I don't know if that is true. It does complicate the design of the panels somewhat. Don't wait for the glue to set between fileting gluing the panels together and putting on the reinforcing strips. Pressing the fibreglass tape into the wet seam means saving a lot of work sanding out lumps amd bumps and getting the waxy layer off the poly resin that enables it to set.

Poly resin does not set in the presence of oxygen. Pros use poly without the wax in it for the first coats and then a top coat that had wax in it to avoid the work of cleaning between coats but you need to go to specialist suppliers to get it. Epoxy is more betterer but poly is ok. If you shop around epoxy in bulk can be cheaper than poly from a hardware store. I got 6 litres of epoxy for about the cost of four ml tins of poly from my local hardware store.

Epoxy can also be stored for ages without problems while poly will set in the tin if stored for too long. Reply 5 years ago.

Thanks for the tips and info and taking the time to comment.. I found a lot of interesting new ideas in what you said - certainly some stuff that I will Google up on. The Japanese saws are something that I really wan to investigate. I've seen a lot of it in Youtube videos. Using a european style standard carpenter's panel saw is trickier but cutting using a very shallow saw angle will help cut down on tearout. There are also specialty finer toothed verneer saws designed for cutting verneered panels and plywoods.

The best way and the easiest way to make a scarf joint is to clamp the side pieces together mark the overlap on both pieces then draw the diagonal line on both the top and bottom, and cut on a band saw.

Great 'ible! I just had to comment, so I could gush about how cute that pic of you and your little girl is! It's so cute, it hurts On several boat building pages a simple butt joint is recommended for joining lengths of plywood in light craft such as this. A scarf joint is a bit stronger, but a close butt joint with 6" of fiberglass tape on each side is just as strong or stronger.

The polyester resin common in auto body work auto parts stores works fine, but the stronger epoxy or vinyl ester is generally stronger. I've used polyester for building a 14' pirogue sp? Left out in the weather with nothing but a coat of laytex paint to protect it, the polyester seams a single layer of tape on seams, no reinforcement inside will crack over the winter.

I stored it upside down outside, and it got a lot of sun too. Other resins are more weather resistant, or use a high quality resin, not the cheap auto parts store stuff. Here's a good US source of info and products:. Wrong, do the scarf joint if you want a quality built boat. Takes more time but it's well worth it. Since a proper boat it covered in glass cloth inside and out, you do get the additional strength that 'sandwich' provides.

Also, my kayak was quite torsionally flexible until I added the deck and bulkheads. If you build a narrow canoe you might as well make it a kayak by adding front and back deck covers. Lovely job! I made a similar one 6 years ago and the UV has finally wrecked it, but it provided loads of fun.

Best part is attaching the gunwales - sudden strength and rigidity to what seems to be a floppy mess. The only thing I did different was the original butt joint of the 2 sheets of ply. I planed a matching taper on both peices I think 12 times the thickness of the ply for the length of taper and epoxy'd that together. Makes a continuous sheet and very strong. Yours looks better finished than mine! Well done.

Hey rippa. Thanks for the comment. So 6 years hey? Sorry to hear about that. I'm hoping to go longer than that by keeping it hoisted against the roof in the garage, out of the sun. Your idea of scarfing I think that's right? I spent quite a few hours sanding and glassing that jointing panel. I'll keep that in mind for future projects. Used good mahagoni plywood, marine epoxy and expensive clear varnish.

These boats should really last forever. Re-varnish from time to time after sanding and they will look like new - mine does. Epoxy and poly aren't UV stable. If you want it to last it needs a coat of paint. My paint of choice is Rustoleum Topside Paint, I also know someone who re-fiberglassed an old touring kayak and painted it with regular house paint.

That was 12 years ago and the kayak is still in great shape. In my last comment I meant that a scarf joint in combination with fiberglass tape on each side is a bit stronger than a butt joint with fiberglass tape.

Can't edit comments once posted! Good luck! Read the instructions and follow advice: The hardening of the resin is a chemical reaction - not air-drying. Problem solving resin not curing: If you have ever worked with polyester resin and mixed a batch that didn't cure You could do any of the following: If it didn't cure at all, pull the fiber matt off and try to clean the surface with acetone.

Can't guarantee it'll work, but if it does it'll save time over trying anything else. If it hardens but remains tacky to the touch as in you can just see your fingerprints , don't worry. Go for the next layer. If it's the last layer, then varnish over it. The varnish will harden and you can carry on with the next layers of varnish.

If partly cured try brushing on a layer of resin. If you're lucky the hardener will also kick the previous batch of resin.

Best to try and apply additional heat. Use a heat gun to kick the reaction. Sometime a certain spot won't cure while the rest does.

Heat gun it and see if it works. I suppose a hair dryer would have a similar effect. Put it out in the sun if that is an option.

But it must be a warm summer sun. Winter sun probably won't work. Sandpaper: I suppose I don't understand polyester resin. Gloves: My advice: buy a lot of latex surgical gloves. I used the gloves when sanding as well, not just when laying down glass. Oh yes, and then there's The wood: This build required two sheets of plywood 1.

The join: I smeared thickened resin thickened with micro balloons around the joint, then stuck the joining strip over the joint, and placed some heavy stuff on top Blooper: Have a look at the last image to see the bad join.

A "dip" in the top panel of between 11cm and 5cm would work for this design. Then it just becomes glue while you try to sand it I made a proper mistake by thinking that I can hot glue sticks in place to spread the sides of the boat.

Sanding: Nothing to say about sanding Fibreglass tape: I bought fibreglass tape to glue down over the seams next. The fixed seats meant I didn't have to do it To position the seat supports I used a 14cm high block with a water level to mark the top and bottom position of each seat. Glueing: I used a waterproof wood glue to glue the gunwhales. Clamping: I didn't have enough clamps. Since the bulkheads were now in I could proceed to do the final layer of resin on the floor.

Thickened resin worked well to glue them in place. More sanding The gunwhale done without the wax paper came out a bit nicer. So I read up on outriggers. And his dog As it stand the float is cm long, and 7cm high. The width is 10cm. A nut is positioned on the bottom of the screw under the short piece of wood.

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Stitch And Glue Boat Building Tutorial Live