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How to Build Rudder Blades & Centerboards - Classic Moth Boat Association
Building a sailboat rudder,fishing skiff designs,plywood rowing shell plans,how to make small boat - New On SAILBOAT MAST BUILDING Sailboat mast building, whether by a professional or non-professional, requires the same knowledge of metal fabrication and welding procedures that apply to building a hull. St sailing catamaran building While less substantially known with tourists than other islands Building A Sailboat From Scratch such as Antigua Sint Ma. From the DUO to the light speed the first multi hull that sailed solo non sailing catamaran building plans stop around the Quality plans for amateur. Rudder hardware The rudder hardware holds the rudder assembly to the transom and allows it to hinge right and left. Usually this is done with a couple pintles and gudgeons but, on simple, home-built boats like this one, it can be another hinging mechanism. Leeboard The leeboard is a foil placed on the side of a sailboat to keep the boat from being pushed sideways by wind or waves. It functions similar to. 3 Building a Wooden Boat. Not content with the standard sailboat rudder construction of a two-part GRP foamed cored fabrication, we decided on a far more robust construction for our self-build sailboat Alacazam.� It's not enough just for a sailboat rudder to steer the boat effectively, it should also contribute to the keel's job of providing lift to windward, and for it to do this it must be designed as a hydrodynamic foil. Of course a rudder doesn't have to provide lift, but it's a wasted opportunity if it doesn't. As with an aircraft's wing, to develop lift the sailboat rudder must have water flowing over its leading edge at an angle of attack.

Log in or Sign up. Boat Design Net. DIY rudder build. Hey guys. Here is my attempt at making a rudder for my dads 25 foot trailer sailer. My dad snapped it off by reversing up the driveway with it down. The boat is 25 foot long and about kg the keel is kg on its own. The original rudder was only 2. So I added an extra foot to the new rudder. Obviously there are heaps of variables to how long the rudder should be but, surely 2. Not sure if I am in the right section but being plywood and glass I guess that is more composite than wood right?

I realize this is going to make me look pretty clueless but thats OK I have never used fiberglass before, or micro balloons or epoxy and in general just went at it to have a go. So please feel free to tell me all the things I done wrong so next time I can do em better. I sort of figured out a few things I done wrong all on my own anyway.

Like glassing the whole rudder in one go! That ended up with a lot of wrinkled glass and way too much resin. I went and got a new orbital sander and that made short work of roughly smoothing it to get rid of the high spots even if I did sand through glass. How much could I have expected a pro to build a rudder replacement for this?

My mate Wes and I done this over a few day and many beers. We started by screwing 2 pieces of 15mm marine ply and cutting out the shape of the old rudder and added 1 foot to the length.

We then undone the screws and epoxied the 2 pieces together,holding it together with screws again. We removed the screws and power planed it to approximate the foil shape and finished the shaping it with my new electrical orbital sander. The foil shape wont win any races as its just by eye. How important is this? This boat is an old clunker anyhow. Nice work shed. Nice work boots.

We then coated the whole lot in glass and epoxy in a very unprofessional manner many beers had been consumed by this stage. I drilled a larger hole than required for the pivot pin and filled that with micro spheres so that when the whole is re drilled no wood is exposed to keep water out. I then sanded off the high spots and used west system micro spheres to fair it and sanded again. For the last few little imperfections I just used builders bog as I was sick of waiting 24 hours before I could sand the epoxy.

Nice work bench Nice glassing job Nothing a sander cant fix.. The glass is just for abrasion and water protection anyway not strength. Roughly foil shaped. I did try to make it even in the sanding and planing stage by looking at the layers of ply as I removed material.

You can see the size difference. Now its ready to undercoat and paint. DennisRB , Sep 28, It looks nice though, better than my first one. I think the results so far are actually pretty good despite the somewhat substandard intermediate steps. Fully agree on the too much resin.

We were just pouring it on to try and use up what we mixed up. I think because we done the whole lot in one go it became impossible to roll the excess out with the fiberglassing roller tool. I think I will be able to do it right next time by just doing the edges first so I can roll any excess resin out.

Peel ply might work then. I don't think it would have helped a lot this time given how bad we laid it up How do you mean a router would help to make it even and shape it? Would I set it to pre determined different depths and scribe grooves at even spacings then plane down to the grooves or something?

Landlubber , Sep 28, Nice link. I know a little bit about airfoils. I have been into RC planes since I was a kid. But I don't really know how much it matters for a rudder on a boat? Do foil changes really make a big or even noticeable difference for a cruising boat for a rudder?

I know on my RC planes the main wing needed a good airfoil but when it came to the rudder and elevator a flat board was good enough. How do people usually get their rudders to match the foil shape? With RC planes its easy as you just print the foil shape out then use a hot wire bow to cut the foam core. I guess this could work with some types of foam for boat rudders too but what about wood? I did use the veneer lines. I thought the lines were parallel enough that sanding the fairing compound would lead to a pretty straight result.

I can see that the lines are not totally straight but pic one shows a failed? I took too much material away in some areas and elected to fill those areas later rather than taking more material away to make it even. Given my glassing job I doubt much more accuracy here would have made a differnce anyway The pencil lines were made so I could trace the veneer lines on paper then draw them on the other side to get the same shape on both sides.

The thing was I didn't actually have any particular foil shape, just whatever looked OK. But I hear you that my job was pretty shithouse I wont argue there. Maybe I next time I can do what I do for a RC plane wing and draw the airfoil on both ends then shave it to that profile on the ends, and from there I can make parallels down the whole rudder?

Given I will actually have a real foil shape then it might pay to put more effort into keeping the lines straight and doing a decent glassing job. Thanks for the tips Does anyone have any input on the new and old rudder sizes? On small, light weight boats, a plywood rudder is acceptable, as the loads are fairly light, but once you get over 18', the loads increase enough to make plywood a less desirable rudder material.

A better wooden approach for a boat of this size is a strip planked blade. The pictures aren't great, but you can see the foil sections are being cut. These pictures where taken as I switched foil templates, which was routed across the blade. You can see the quarter sawn strips about 1. What can't be seen is the alternating grain orientation to eliminate internal stresses. PAR , Sep 28, Great reference thread!

Thanks PAR. I really should have made this thread before I started the build. Do you think my rudder is strong enough realistically? The ply is about 27mm thick at the top where it joins the stock since some material had to be removed so it would fit in. The old rudder didn't snap from normal use. But I assume the extra length will only put more stress on it.

I still don't understand how you use a router to accurately cut the foil shape? The break in the picture looks just like what a break from a rolling shear failure looks like. You may have had some internal fiber failures, but the blade was still whole and the drive way was the straw that broke it's back. In other words it broke at it's weakest point when it hit the driveway. Why did you add length to the blade? Thee are a few methods that I know of for using a router jig to cut foil sections.

Naturally each has good and bad points about them. The blade I show was for a light weight, 17' daysailor and finished about 1" thick. Because the blade changed shaped pretty dramatically along it's length I elected to make several templates and adjust the foil type along the length. The top portion of the blade was a surface piercing shape, the middle portions transitioned from to and the end of the blade was a 63 series section.

This caused me to have to cut in 6" sections at a time, but this isn't unusual. The setup can be tedious for these router jigs, but you end up with precise sectional shapes and more importantly symmetrical foils.

The bade is over 32mm thick in total for most of the span. Only the section that goes into the stock was shaved to 27mm so the glass could pack it out to 30mm so it would fit in. The stock slot is 30mm. That just happens to be the most stressed part of the rudder too.

This boat was used for racing and was apparently one of the fastest trailer boats in Moreton bay 40 years ago. It was owned by the Commodore of the Manly Yacht Club.

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