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I did consider collet-type connections or finding a matching female spline but the lathe option was easiest for me. The main disadvantage of this, however, is that every time the motor is removed it brings the driveshaft with it, which makes reassembly quite a faff. The lathed spline screwed nicely into the 8mm female thread on the motor shaft, and a lock-nut completed the union. Testing the assembled electronic components on the bench.
Connect the three thick phase wires from the motor to the appropriate colours on the motor controller. These are usually coloured green, yellow and blue.
Connect the sensor plug on the controller to the sensor socket on the motor. This will have at least five wires. Usually red and black 5V and ground and green, yellow and blue which take the signals from the three hall sensors in the motor. Connect the red wire on the throttle to 5V usually available on one of the numerous outputs of the motor controller , the black wire on the throttle controller to ground on the motor controller, and the third wire could be any colour to the speed input of the controller, which could also be any colour.
Finding which wire does what in a manual-free wasteland is very challenging. Some controllers may not have a 5V supply for the throttle and you may need to provide this separately via a 48V-5V DC converter. This should not daunt you as they are easily available. In addition most controllers have a reverse function which requires connection of a switch.
One such arrangement is shown in the schematic diagram above of the simplest possible control system. Now is the moment of truth. Connect the battery positive and negative to the motor controller positive and negative, and give the throttle a twist.
At Build Your Own Boat Lift Motor Locations this point, assuming the motor turns, you are essentially home and dry. All that remains is as many weeks of refinement as you care to deploy.
Transition plate and connection between electric motor and outboard leg. A word of warning: neither the motor, controller, Nextion display, charger or battery came with a shred of documentation.
I used a multimeter and figured it out for myself. Zipping around Largs with the home-built electric outboard. Olly Epsom is a chartered engineer specialising in renewable energy, particularly wave power. He bought Radioactivity, a UFO 27 which he cruises and races, in Based in Scotland, Olly enjoys the outdoors, promoting science and engineering at local schools, and running his own consultancy company, Moose Pyll Engineering.
Skip to content �. Home All latest posts. For most people, building your own electric outboard motor is unnecessary, time consuming, and may well result in a product that is both inferior to, and more expensive than a new commercial electric outboard.
Well, my motivations were as follows: 1. There may be other reasons to embark on such a project, and if so, fill your boots. Unused petrol engine parts. Propeller and drive are to be retained. Original cooling impeller can be discarded. Scruffy, but well-built 2hp Johnson. It might be what the canoe, kayak people are looking for?
Guest , Aug 11, CDK , Aug 11, Rick will most likely step in with some tech talk, but a lot of this is uncharted and you need to do so trial and error testing, and let us know the results. I think the scooter motor and battery would be a good starting place. The gear box is your next hurdle! Flex shaft is also an option. Maybe a heat and air motor from a car?? Or go to Wal Mart and get a trolling motor prop. If you have a pet idea and an appropriate electric motor, "suck it and see" just for the fun of it Why buy when there are soooo many commercial options?
Ahhh now this is a different story, and far more in Rick Willoughby's field, where I would consider him to be an expert, be guided by him He is after high efficiency but you could utilise some of the technology to your advantage, like the long flexible external drive shaft put the electric motor forward in a splash-proof box - - maybe use a cheaper propeller or make your own 2 blade similar to that used by model aircraft but rotate at to rpm in the water, salvage a controller from a busted electric outboard or make one up and salvage battery packs from busted electric drills if the drill is busted the battery pack could still be OK, and the charger When messing with the packs from the drills, wear safety glasses and keep a fire extinguisher handy!
They pack a lot of quick power. This is what I meant in post 4. Found it in the shed today looking for something else. I made it at least 15 years ago, maybe At the time it seemed OK, now I would have shaped it a bit differently. There also was a controller with a joy stick, but I'm afraid it went into the dumpster. JPG File size: CDK , Aug 29, Try these.
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