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Ridicule Gulf is the integrate of five-minute expostulate quetsions Darkwood Strandtogether with parching bunches of perfumed lavender to have your personal sachets. We're still attempting really toilsomeI am instruct to set up the prosaic backside aluminum vessel 17' extensive x 50' bottom, have schooled to do a little extraordinary woodwork with a squalid retard aircraft as well as have carried which ability over to tiny as well as huge jobs in a seat shop.

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This will be A completely different Build to the Orca of course, minimal weathering, bright and colourful, much tidier when finished, but still plenty of scope to add a personal stamp on it! After watching your last build log and really enjoyed it, i am looking forward to this one.

Last couple of days has seen a little progress in between other tasks around the house which included making a baby blanket for my daughter up in Hull! Got all the formers in and have started step 4 which is building the 4 sets of doubled stringers. The first rows are in and everything is plumb square, crucial at this stage to keep and nice true hull! Will let that set up overnight before putting in the doublers tomorrow before moving onto stage 5 which is the hatch components. Very pleased with the wood quality in this kit!

Looks like that kit goes together rather well. Then again it could just be down to your skills. Keep up the good work. That 1 pin is an extra pair of hands Kevin!

Trying to keep the stringer strip curved is also helpEd with a few light score cuts on the inside before glueing using aliphatic wood glue. Nice clean work. Never thought of doing it that way. Great idea,. Good progress today seeing stages inc done. Note that to ease around the bow of the curve, light cuts using the razor saw every mm helped ease around the bend without forcing it into place.

Stage saw the basic hatch frame built along with the bow and stern hatch supports. Key at this point was ensuring every thing was square before the glue set. I Also built the stand with a couple of minor mods to add strength and improve the aesthetics of the stand. Sy Love those photos of long rows of clamps! That i would love to see, how you modify a Stormtrooper. Clever mod to the stand Sky, definitely going to copy that. Took me a year to get this far with my Patrol Torpedo Boat. Coming along nicely Sky.

I see you have an assistant on bench, i hope you both social distancing even though he seems to be wearing protective equipment LOL!! Cheers Rob, copy away ha ha. Great progress Sy. Today has seen Stage 8 which was the hatch sheeting completed, all still sitting nice and square on the hull. The key here is to ensure the hatch frames match the hull frames prior to sheeting. A little work with the dremel and sanding block had it all level before sheeting commenced. Stages was adding all the packers either side of the keel which will eventually have the bottom sheeting sitting on.

As per the manual, made up the 2 sets of 3 laminations, followed by dry fitting, marking the bevel and creating a dust storm with the Dremel! Thankfully I have a good filter mask but still spent the day sneezing! At this point I deviated slightly from the manual which suggested drilling the prop shaft channel with a 8. What I did was to mark the piece either side of the keel at the prop shaft point and then use the sanding drum to creat a channel, much neater and less chance of ripping the wood!

Tomorrow will be shaping the stringers in preparation for sheeting! Sy, I agree with your method using aliphatic glue. I do the same thing, let it cure thoroughly then a second coat to all joints.

Nicely done. I think when I get a little older and slower, I will often be seen walking around the garden, quietly swearing with the entire boat stuck to my hands. Only skin sticks on at the moment. I actually double glue most key joints? With wood glue aliphatic my fave! I glue and clamp and squeegee any excess that creeps out of the joint with finger or a 45 degree cut piece of softish balsa Sheet.

Once dry I go round all the joints and repeat, squeegeeing in. Different story with epoxy! Very nice woodwork. You hide the glue very well. Nope, not a chance Rob, my longest 8mm bit would be half that beast!

I really like the way you and Sky share information and tips. Keep it up. Making very rapid progress there Sy. I have a long 8mm wood bit that went through clean as a whistle, no Dremmelling required!

With your skills i think you will get more satisfaction making your own. Hi Martin, no the kit comes with next to no hardware. Required as extra, motor, propshaft, coupling, prop ect. You can buy a slightly more comprehensive kit that includes white metal parts, railing brass ect, but opted for the lesser kit as I wanted to make my own railings, stanchions, bollards ect. Hi Sky, Nice. Did the shaft come with the kit.?

Do you have to purchase a separate fittings.? Time to start planing and shaping the stringers ready to start sheeting. This took a few hours with the razor plane, Dremel, sanding block and fine sandpaper, but worth spending a bit of time at this stage to ensure sheeting sits right.

Then onwards with the first of the sheeting. Again, spending time fitting the pieces before committing the glue! The compound curve at the bow was assisted with some heat from the heat gun to the point that it was curved without any stress. Also sanded the exit hole for the propshaft, a lot easier now than when the sheet is glued! Formers were marked on the sheet to act as a guide for tiny brass nails to take the sheets onto them to ensure a tight fit.

The manual recommends using contact adhesive for sheeting, however, I deviated by using aliphatic, lots of pins, 10mm brass nails And a heap of clamps giving more working time. Is there just one storm trooper? Only costs pennies to make and the aluminium oxide paper glued to it lasts forever, 60 grit one side and 80 grit on the other.

Good to see the Stormtrooper earning his keep. Or just plain nosey. Very nice job. Nice work. A day of swearing, cussing and other profanities! No dramas here, using the flat sanding plate to finish gave a nice finish to the edge of the bottom sheeting and stringers.

On to the side sheeting! It takes an age and at times 8 pairs of hands would have been useful, using clamps to hold it to the side of the hull to Mark it up and trim to a size that will be easier to manage. Again, use of the heat gun to get a good curve in the bow to help prevent a fight once we start to glue! Got there in the end, managed after a couple of hours of trimming, practice fitting and finally got some glue on the stringers and got both side pieces on using every clamp, pins and tape I had!

The instructions call for trimming the bow balsa blocks to a size and shape more in keeping with the final shape prior to glueing onto the hull. Both pieces have now been trimmed and will be fitted tomorrow. Last job today was to fit the transom packing pieces and again, the transom sheet will go on tomorrow too. It will just make life easier putting on the brass nut on the outlet and getting some epoxy on to seal it too. I like the Hammerite Finnish robbob, Makes it look neat and tidy.

I gave all the internals a couple of coats of sanding sealer and then two coats of good old Hammerite brushed on. In many ways it's easier to do the glassing first as the shaft doesn't get in the way, but whatever works best for you.

Finally I can fit the shaft now that the motor has arrived Hopefully my motor and propshaft coupling will arrive tomorrow? My thought is, Epoxy install propshaft and get that all lined up with coupling, motor ect.

Kind regards Sy. Stormtrooper playing up today was he?. We all have days like that. Hopefully tomorrow will be much better. The weekends good weather has given me the chance to get the remaining deck pieces fitted, nose blocks fitted along with all the hull sheeting.

This has been followed up with plenty of sanding, filling and finished with a couple of coats of sanding sealer, sanding between for an ultra smooth finish all over. Very pleased with the results, it will be shame to glass it, but belt n braces for piece of mind. Has done several soldering jobs where even my 50W iron struggles or gives up.

Not a problem. I've never tried it Pete, but I don't see why not. It can produce a very hot fine pointed flame. I have the very same gas torch Doug, question! I guess they'll do the job fine Pete. That's why I like that little kitchen gas torch.

It can be adjusted to a very small fine very hot flame. Cheers, Pete. For my Sea Scout I used the drill bit that I had used to drill the shaft tube to hold the oiler tube in place while I soldered it - using a little kitchen 'Gourmet' gas torch. Thanks Sy. Pilot boat coming along nicely, why did you glass fiber the transom first? I've used a brass clamp-on oiler before but never seen a plastic one, where's that from?

Well that's the bit you hated over. You have done a good job on it. Now you can enjoy the rest of the build. Lovely work. The day started with an early morning Start and a trip to the lake observing self distancing rules, not that it mattered as at hrs I was the only sucker there! Last piece tomorrow. Final job was to sand, seal, prime and paint the motor mount, just because I could!

Thanks, very helpful. I've never used one of these, always just oil from each end. Perhaps I'll fit one in an older boat first. Thanks for the tips though. A couple of points to note, you will need to carefully drill a 2mm hole in the tube, but obviously not going through both walls of the tube.

Kind regards. I'm finding your build very interesting and informative. I looked up those oilers on ebay- presumably it wouldn't be too difficult to fit them retrospectively? Started the morning with a nice long walk with the dog, came home to find the postie had delivered my Turnigy 50a ESC.

So, decided to get all the electronics configured. Soldered on the 3mm brass connectors to the esc, and the XT60 too. Hooked it all up to Rx, servo, esc, motor, connected a spare old LiPo and instant smoke and a big spark from the XT60! After the smoke and smell had died down, I checked my XT60 and noticed I had soldered the polarity the wrong way round! I thought I must have fried the ESC, but thankfully the only damage was the battery lost all its charge and a melted XT On went a new one and all worked fine with another battery, lucky boy and a timely reminder to double check polarity before committing heat!

Other jobs included painting the servo mount and motor mount base, making a couple of stand offs for the esc and rx and last job was to put on the last piece of cloth and resin. Back Thursday! Doug's Veroboard solution is fine if you have room for it. Roger all the above messages Rob and Doug, I like both methods of employing fuse And switch inline. In particular if you can't fit a Main Power switch with sufficient current rating.

I prefer to use the PCB mounted blade fuse holders. I solder them into a chunk of Vero sorry Matrix! Attached pic shows my Sea Scout 'Machinery Flat' installation. Most 'unladylike' for a Broads cruiser! But then since the gangster days 'broad' has taken on a slightly different meaning! The wiring of mine will be exactly the same as in my Police Launch but with the main power switch on a bracket close to the battery box.

I'll most likely make the fuseholder in-line using Lucar female connectors and heat shrink sleeving the same as in my Police boat too. I hope that's helpful. Hard as nails, easy to clean and easier to splosh around inside than messing with spray cans and masking!

Hi Pete, I guess we all like what we like when it comes to connectors. I shall be giving my internal hull a coat of sealer, followed by a coat of resin, will then give it a coat of primer And a dollop of paint from a rattle can. I always use the lipo alarms, for the few pence they cost, invaluable! Pleased to report that on 2S, whilst not fast, probably fast enough for the new owner as a first boat.

If I was keeping it, I would go 3S. She zips along very nicely and was the brunt of many questions from walkers by! I have taken some video and will convert and add that at some point over the next day or so. On to the next build soon! Brilliant job Sy. So quick as well. The new owner must have been delighted. On to the next? Simple screen shot on the iPad and they are stored ready for the build?

I bought a set off him, glad I did as I can only imagine they are possibly originals left over from Lesro as they are very good. I am still trying to source a set of full scale plans to help with the detailing, but can probably get away with using reference pics to the most part. I shall be going sized brushless D kv on 3S. Great outcome to your endeavours, I thought you had cheated and taken photos of the real thing, until I saw it on the stand.

Well done be proud ,another outstanding model. Cheers Colin. Great pictures Sy. Fantastic workmanship. A pleasure to see her finished and on the water. The new owner will be extremely happy with her. Again you have completed another masterpiece. Well done. What a good looking boat great build. Great to see a finished project, don't know how you can let it go. I've just started the Vintage Model Works Police launch, very nice kit well presented, the same one Rob did.

Hopefully will get a few running shots in the can for a final update and hopefully a bit of video too. Fully understand where you're coming from Sy, finding homes for my boats is becoming a problem, but I hate parting with any, they all have sentimental reasons for keeping, but looking forward to your next build.

Storage space is also an issue and I move onto the next project hoping to make it better than the last. Wow great looking model. Great job and the attention to detail really shows.

Cheers, Pete. Super job Sy. Another sprint very well completed. Congratulations on finishing your superb boat, I just hope mine will look half as good when it's finished. Also looking forward to the 'Sea Trials' too. Hi, I really like the way you painted her! And her details are awesome! Another great looking build! Cheers, Ed. That is fantastic and i really enjoyed your build log. The new owner will be extremely happy with your great work.

Extremely well done. Looks great ,you've made a real nice job of it,- looking forward to the video! Once the mast is installed on the roof, it has a little bit of rigging to be added to call it finished. I have Tuesday and Wednesday off work and it is my intention to have this model finished, ballasted, filmed and photographed on the water and off to its new owner so that I can get on with my next project which will be?

Very nice mast detail, great photos as usual. I may well do Martin, the moulded parts arrived today. There is very little out there on previous builds, so will probably come back to the forum for advice on going the brushless route ect as this was originally designed around brushed motors.

And as for super detail that i am looking forward too. It will probably appear as an 'Invalid File'. But if we open it using Windows Media Player it will work. That looks really good.

Hi Sy. The mast is looking good Been a busy weekend finishing the railings, painting and fitting. The bottom rail is made from strips of plasticard approx 1mm x 3mm with a reinforcement on the back with plastic tube cut in half to make a clamp. The hole assembly was painted of the boat then fitted. Just needs the 1. Last job today was to start making the basic mast array. The Main mast is 7mm glassfibre rod and the rest will be made from Carbon rod, brass rod and little bits of plasticard.

So, I hope to have it finished next weekend, Ballast and a quick sale for photos before it goes to its new owner! Very nice work Sy. Very impressive method. Many thanks Pete, the price coming is more than the cost of materials, but never enough to cover labour! By the way Sy. There's some really good mast detail in this photo The radar unit looks excellent and the railings too. I'm glad the 'photos I found were helpful. Really looking good.

All your painstaking hard work is paying off. Cracking looking model. Your probably right Martin, building the basic model especially if a kit is generally easy and enjoyable. She really looks fantastic Sy. I think you enjoy doing the detail work more than the main build. Long day Well afternoon due to household chore prior, of what Seems little progress. Lots of drilling once hole locations were measured and established then soldering the eyes to the uprights and lining up the main railing.

Looks fine. Either tomorrow or Monday I will finish the second run of railing below the top piece. However this appears to be a flat railing instead of tubular so I shall make this from plasticard strip adopt 1mmx3mm running The length of the top railing. Cheers peter, thankfully these Brass railing tops I bought made life a lot easier! It was t too bad Pete, lots of the old measure twice cut once, and constant use of the regency pics. You make the railings look so easy.

Super job. Nice work Sy, not the easiest of jobs to do. Many thanks for the pics Rob, you have managed to find a lot more reference than I did?

The radar ref pics are extremely useful for mine which I hope to start Monday. Looks really good to me, I just hope mine comes out as well as yours. The lower rail is actually a safety line attachment rail for the crew to secure themselves to as they move about the deck.

I think it's called a UniRail system and looks a bit like a model railway 'rail'. I've found some pix of the rail Hope that helps. Anyway, front and rear windows now done and installed along with the remaining wiper boxes. Last job today was to solder from brass rod the remaining rear railing until before adding liefebelt and glueing to the deck. Perhaps you should give up the new job and make models for a living. She looks absolutely brilliant Sy. Well worth taking time over. The windows look excellent so all your effort is certainly worth it.

For those who were interested in how I built the roof vents, here is my method. Started with a piece of obechi cut to required length and sanded round at the ends then sealed prior to painting. The ring next is from 7mm plastic tube cut to 2mm, cleaned up and glued to the wood. The next stage was to use the heat gun to soften the end of the 7mm tube and press with pingers to squash be careful here as the plastic gets quite hot then cut to length about 12mm.

Using the dremel on a slow speed with the sander bevelled the base and then trimmed off the corners. Final after glueing to the top of the ring, filled the end with p38 filler and sand and paint to finish. I agree Martin, I like the challenge Of making something from scratch, saves a fortune, in fact, as you say, use the bits you throw away to make something for free!

Plus, a lot of the bits we make are just not commercially available! Kind regards Sy. Hi Sy, I think you get more satisfaction making all the fittings yourself, i know i do. And it is surprising what you can make out of stuff that would normally be thrown away.

Thanks for the illustrated instructions, very helpful. Easy when you know how!! Cheers Rob. Last post of the week before heading back to work for a 3 day set of shifts. The light to finishing is appearing at the end of the tunnel.

Looking really nice. Very neat as usual. Hi and thanks for your offer.

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