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The more raised the edge of the hex head the better, but the outer rim must be hexagonal. Plan on 16 to 20 screws per boot. Be mindful that the balls and heels of your feet make the most contact with rocks. Because the screws are self-tapping, you should be able to just screw them into the soles without pre drilling with a hex bit or a Phillips head.
Be sure to buy extras, because over the season some will wear out and others will work their way out. Want more tips and projects to save you cash in the outdoors? Those are what I can quickly remember, currently I have the Simms Alumbite cleats on a pair of G3 boots going into their 3rd season. I have not lost a one of them and all are still tight.
It comes down to getting them applied to the boot carefully and correctly without over tightening which strips out the boot sole. When they are correctly and carefully installed can't stress that enough they work as well as one can hope for.
They do not protrude to the extent in which they tear surfaces up or become loose due to constant contact with the ground. On most surfaces I wade through they improve my contact with everything underfoot and I don't slip slide around.
For me they have been the longest lasting least damaging studs I have used. I did find that with some brands that protruded way beyond the rubber soles of my boots that they could create a slip and fall on dry slab rock near shore. I believe that occurred because the rubber was not in contact with the inclined smooth surface of the stone at all, I was supported by that series of little metal points In the end, wading among wet slippery stone and bedrock submerged in water that is often moving at fair rates of velocity is an inherently tricky operation in which many people end up taking a fall.
Whether or not the dunking can be blamed specifically on the type or brand of studs they use is an open question. I do not wait until I am thigh deep in raging currents to deploy a wading staff, you learn to assess risks before you ever enter the flow and go prepared. The combination of cleats for some added grip and staff for balance are a winning combo for me As a final remark I'll say that every close call I've had while wading here and other places over the past decades has been caused by the velocity of current and not by my choice of studs.
Once the current is at a level which is actually pushing your feet downstream or eroding the bottom substrate away from your feet where you stand you have passed the point of relying on studs for help. At that point a successful crossing comes down to shear will and you'll look for a better place to cross coming back I hope. Messages Reaction score 3 Location Missouri. Messages 2, Reaction score Location Hudsonville, Michigan. Whichever boot you decide on you may want to go up 2 shoe sizes for a non-binding fit and to allow room for extra socks.
When I wet wade I Small Inflatable Fishing Boat With Motor Exp use a neoprene wet wading sock with a heavy wool sock over the Small Inflatable Fishing Boat With Motor Review top of it to fill out the boot. Foot comfort goes a long way to the enjoyment of day a on the water. Last edited: May 14, Foot comfort goes a long way to the enjoyment of day on the water. Messages Reaction score 2 Location Montana. They work great for me. Thanks to all. The Orvis boot is a nice boot, very nice and I think that it will be easier to break in.
That said the reason it will be easier to break in is because it's lighter than the G3. The thing that kept bugging me was what did they take out to make it lighter but keep an almost identical feature set? I decided, based on their track record on durability on the G3s. I also grabbed up a couple of "pucks" of the Hardbite Star cleats. I will break the boots in over the next couple of days and install the cleats Friday night before I go fishing this weekend.
Thanks again to everyone. The info really helped with the decision. I guess it's too late, but to me the Patagonia Foot Tractors are the way to go. Instead of having studs grab the rock, the rock grabs the aluminum plates on the bottom of the boot. I only wear mine I have the old version when I'll be fishing in slippery situations because the boots are heavy and not the most comfortable--I have G3s for fishing easier to wade streams.
The Foot Tractors have such a good grip. I feel confident in almost any wading situation. The only time I've had problems is on wet wood, which studs would probably be better on. There are also several companies that produce universal studs that work with most brands of wading boots.
I detail the plus and minus of my boots. Beyond the purpose-built wading boot studs available in most fly shops, there are also a handful of DIY options available that offer huge cost savings. Thrifty fly anglers over the years Ice Fishing Boots On Sale Price have discovered that aluminum sheet rock screws with hexagonal heads grip rocks just as well as the pre-packaged options but at a tiny fraction of the price. For the most traction on slippery rocks, you want at least 10 studs in each boot.
Before you jump in and start screwing in studs at random, take a minute to think about the best location for each.
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