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Over-all BEAM: 54 in. Three-point hydroplanes hold all major water speed records, and though her points may be smaller, she's a miniature thoroughbred. Small enough to fit inside a station wagon or on top of a compact car, the bare hull weighs only 74 lbs. It's an easy construction job that can be accomplished in a corner of your garage or basement. Study the drawings and photos carefully before starting to build.

No building jig is required, but the steps must be carried out in order. Screws: Flathead wood type, hot dipped galvanized iron.

STEP 2. On Frame 1, notches for the non-trip chine and the bow piece are cut into the frame only; on the balance of the longitudinals and also on Frame 2, the notches are cut into both the framework and the plywood gussets. STEP 3. Tack Frame 2 in place on the bottom planking, then permanently fasten it by driving nails through the underside into the cross member and through the runner chines into the side frame member.

Note that at the aft end these members are bevelled to accommodate the deg. STEP 4. Align the aft portion of the chine and sheer clamp carefully to allow for the thickness of the transom. The forward ends are allowed to run wild for cutting to length after assembly. Observe that the bottom edge of the plywood side planking and the chine are bevelled at a deg. During assembly, be sure that the bottom planking is straight as it contacts the chine member. Frame 1 is then assembled and slipped into position over the chine members.

Notice that a notch will be made in the chine to enable the frame to be slipped into position over the chine. On the aft side of the Frame 1 gusset, a block is used to fasten the side planking to the frame. STEP 5. The sub-assembly just completed--side planking, chine and sheer with Frame is now assembled to the bottom planking. The chine should run forward to contact with Frame 2.

The sheer clamp is left to run wild over the top of Frame 2. STEP 6. The cap on the aft side of the transom must also be bevelled 15 deg. Assemble the side frame members to the transom, notching for the sheer clamp in the framework only and angling at the bottom for the chine members.

Do not assemble the top frame member to the transom at this time. Cut it oversize on the carling end and set aside. The transom may now be assembled to the bottom planking. STEP 7. The bow piece is then assembled to the bottom planking fitting into the notches in Frames 1 and 2. The excess bottom planking around the bow member is then trimmed off. NOTE: From this point until the boat is finished, the hull should be set on a level surface so that the transom is not twisted in relation to the runners.

STEP 8. The sheer clamp is notched into Frame 2 and extended forward to the bow piece where it ends in a long taper. Spring any scrap member around the inner surface of the frames past the transom to simulate the coaming. Note that it will be necessary to bevel the side of the transom and motorboards to accommodate this member. The carling, set vertically, is fitted into the notch in the bow piece first and then sprung aft into the notches in each of the frames.

Leave the end overhanging at the transom for trimming later. STEP 9. Fair or bevel all surfaces which will contact the side decking so that the planking will fit flush to the framework. This is a progressive process that may seem rather complicated, but a study of the drawings and photographs should help clear up the matter. If you're careful, it's possible to obtain all of the decking from a single 4 x 8-ft. You won't have a great deal of excess material, however, so be careful in rough trimming.

It isn't necessary to fasten to any of the inner contact points. The opposite side is put on and any excess trimmed. STEP If preferred, the decking may merely lap over the coaming with the routed groove being eliminated. The coaming is fitted into the notch in the bow piece with the point extending over the top of this member. It is progressively sprung around the hull on the inside of the carling and frames and notched out on the aft end to fit over the transom and extend flush with the outer motorboard.

The dash beam and the forward deck beam at Frame 2 are fastened against blocking provided on the coaming. At this point it rests against the frame and is canted forward as indicated in the drawings. A long bevel is cut so that this member will rest on the bow piece. Corner glue blocks are installed at the junctions of Frames 1 and 2 with the runner chines.

The bottom area is then faired for both the runner chine and the runner bottom. This operation is similar to fairing the frame for the decking. Cut it slightly oversize and do any necessary trimming after fastening it in place. After coating the area liberally with glue, begin fastening it along the bow piece. Then use a C-clamp to pull the non-trip chine so that the aft portion is parallel to the runner chine.

This section must be fiat. The area is then faired flush at the non-trip chine and the runner bottom planking installed, lapping it over the non-trip planking.

Before finishing the forward decking, the interior should be painted with a dry-rot preventative. Cover as much of the area as possible, particularly down in the runners where water may tend to settle. The cowl plywood is fitted on one side of the coaming and tacked into position while the other side is fitted. The panel will tend to buckle as this is a slight compound curve, but as you progressively work the panel down the wrinkles will disappear.

The transom knee may be cut from any scrap 2-in. The distance you mount this below the transom top edge should actually depend upon the motor used. Drive three 3-in. The cap strip at the dash covers the exposed edge of the forward decking. Round the edges generously and nail in place. Due to the weight-sensitive nature of the three-point hydroplane, it is usually not fiberglassed. If you desire to fiberglass it, however, use a light cloth. In the prototype, the bottom was primed with a plywood sealer and then given three coats of marine varnish.

The top side on the original was painted a brilliant red-orange. After sealing with the plywood primer, flat paint was applied and sanded until the grain had disappeared. Two coats of a marine enamel went on. The steering should be a tiller rope type with the drum exposed or forward of the dash. These are available with a standard in.

The tiller cable should lead through transom-type pulley sheaves recessed into the coaming, extend aft to a pulley on the bar mounted to the motor and then back down to the coaming where it joins the transom. A spring at this point maintains tension on the steering system at all times. A throttle control of the dead-man type or automatic release is recommended with larger motors, though a standard lever control can be used.

To prevent slipping in turns, an aluminum fin is installed inboard of the port runner. Note glue blocks at frame-chine junctions. Saucy Shingle can handle almost any motor below 20 hp. You can get adequate speed for small fry with a motor under 10 hp, but the stock propeller should be replaced with one to match the boat. For high speeds it is recommended that the driver wear a life jacket and crash helmet.

For the small fry it goes without saying that this equipment is a must at all times. Type keyword s to search. Today's Top Stories. Navy Destroyers Encountered Mysterious Drones. The 71 Best Tools of This content is created and maintained by a third party, and imported onto this page to help users provide their email addresses.

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