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How to make fiberglass boat | ����� Body filler under the gelcoat was torn off the fibreglass by the flexing of the boat, leading to leaks of course! I sure do appreciate how you�ve formatted your tutorials and how you speak in plain English. It�s refreshing to actually see someone present so clearly!! Thanks Andy and heck I`d like to hang out and learn more about boat repairing. Jan 16, - Explore William Sound Deadening Paint For Boats Youtube Madden's board "Fiberglass boats and repair" on Pinterest. See more ideas about boat restoration, fiberglass, boat pins. Stainless Steel Hinge Hatch Door Holder - L Shaped Support Bracket. 8 Console Door / Hatch / Tackle / Boat Storage / CDF (20" x 12").
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This one for a 31 Bertram, constructed of light weight fiberglass. Countertop options available and choice of colors. White Polymer Drop Leaf Table. Center Cockpit Station with rocket launcher, tackle drawers and tackle boxes. Center cockpit live well. Custom Fiberglass Tackle Center.

Custom Designed Tackle Cabinet. Custom Livewells and Bait Tanks can be included in your custom manufactured console. Custom Center Cockpit Station. Center Cockpit Station. We will take trade ins or buy used equipment. We will work with your boat builder to help fabricate whatever is necessary and in whatever way we can to facilitate completion of your project. Always creating new products, Nautical Design will be happy to engineer your next great idea! Custom Cabinets with Livewells. If I use FG, how do you get it smooth?

What angle should the steering controls be mounted? Is there a more economical solution? Am I biting off more than I can chew with the FG? Would I have more luck smoking crack? Thanks for your help, Bob. AC exterior will work fine. I'd cover it with 2 layers of light cloth inside and out, then "hot coat" it with resin mixed with surfacing agent wax for an easily sandable surface if you want it slickety smooth. The hot coat also helps ensure the thing will be totally sealed. Then paint to match.

As far as design, get in the boat with a tape measure, angle guage a protractor will do , and your imagination and draw up your console.

Think about if you'll be sitting or standing to drive, what kind of storage you'll want, instruments, electronics, binnacle or side mount controls, seat in the front, livewell, drink holders, grab rails, and on and on This really makes the thing look good and is all you need to avoid the "box" look.

Put a few degrees of angle inward from bottom to top and it'll really look good. A little harder to build but well worth it.

Good luck. Corpus Skipper , May 15, Thx Craig. What is hot mix? Console design bobclose, sometimes helm designs get built before they're really finalized because you get the sketch done and don't mock them up.

The old "it looked good on paper" deal. I agree with Corpus Skipper that taper in body section is nice looking, but I also think that the forward panel sloping aft a few inches lends to better seating forward and looks better for similiar reasons. If the battery will be stowed below the main body of the console and wiring will run to the side or stern you can also take this time to understand how you'll need to accomodate the instruments, wheel and engine controls.

If you have the wheel you can stand with the helm in your hands and make decisions about the angle of the console top. With a cooler and some floats or life jackets as a seat you can make good decisions about how that same helm will sit.

Once the entire cardboard mock up is taped it will hold a wheel by taping a pc of 1x2 or 1x4 across the top of the console with a small nail of screw to hang the wheel on. This means you could stand and sit without holding the wheel but still test the two positions if they're going to be important.

If you're going to have a wind screen that frame is probably easier in aluminum bolted onto the top. These can be welded or mitered from extrusions shaped for this purpose. Most often they require a special extrusion of rubber that holds the glass and would have to be purchased with that manufacturer's aluminum framing. I suggest that you consider a wind screen base at the forward top edge of the console if you'll have a windsheild. This is most often a flat 3 or 4" fore and aft the forward edge is the front of the console and the after edge the top of the sloped top where the instruments and wheel is located.

Some designs raise this wind screen base a few inches " and mount the instruments along this raised vertical plane. In this configuration the instruments are more vertical and may have a 'shade' overthem by extending the top surface now raised above the top of the console aft an inch or two. When mocking up in paper I think its worth the time to put a ridgid bottom or shelf a few inches from the bottom to give the box more stiffness and make it more easily free standing.

I usually work in welded aluminum and live in AK where its accepted you WANT a wind shield- but I've sure used this method to confirm size and function of the control station- many times.

Most often avoiding mistakes like no room for the steering cable turn radius inside a console, wheel too close to the shift or other commonly made errors. Cheers, kmorin. Good advice from Kmorin. Hot mix or hot coat is simply poly or vinylester resin with a surfacing agent which is a liquid wax concoction that allows laminating resin to cure tack free and sand easily. I hot coat things so I can sand them smooth before painting without cutting into the fiberglass and creating a bunch of pores, which the hot coat also mostly eliminates.

Bob, I definitely second the idea of making a mock-up from cardboard or doorskin or whatever you happen to have handy. Hot-melt glue is great for that Just to give you some options to consider, I'll tell you how to build a fiberglass version of the console, it probably isn't any cheaper or quicker than the plywood version, nor will it be a hell of a lot better, but, it will reduce the sanding and fairing by quite a bit. You start by building a female mold, ie, you build the console, but with the right shape on the inside rather than the outside from melamine coated particle-board.

Then you use light-weight body filler and a radius tool a stick of wood rounded at the end to make fillets of desired size. After the gel is cured up a bit, say overnight you build up the actual part with fiberglass and resin, you can use core-mat or thin plywood to stiffen up large flat areas.

See the DIAB website for a primer on cored laminates When the fiberglass is fully cured up you disassemble the mold and pull the part out, the corners will probably need a bit of sanding and polishing, so make sure you have enough gelcoat in those areas, but other than that, it should be just about ready to install.




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