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Simply put, you use a wire gauge rated to handle the current of your accessory. This is because there is no single definitive chart for our application, and because there are many factors that go into ampacity rating.

Wire length, ambient temperature, insulation type, and free air space are all contributing factors in addition to the cross-sectional area of a wire. So with that said, this is a conservative chart that will accommodate our needs.

This is intentional. When wiring the RTMR, there are two circuit types: accessories and relay coils. The current requirements for the relay coils are many times less than the accessories.

Furthermore, the coils are a known and constant rating, no matter what type of accessory is installed. As stated earlier and outlined in the datasheet , the current needed to energize the relay coil is This is more than sufficient to handle the relay coil load. With regards to connecting accessories, there are two different approaches to wire size selection when wiring the RTMR.

One approach is to plan everything out in advance, with all of our accessories and current demands known beforehand. This would allow us to build the RMTR with the exact size wire we need for that specific accessory. You then build the enclosure and connect your accessories to the specific circuit where you want your switch. Therefore, the second approach is to build the RTMR so that each circuit can handle the maximum load that you may need, regardless of how many high-powered accessories you plan to install.

Let me explain. This is the nature of the beast. That means only the first two switches connected to these relays can be used for these accessories. But what if I wanted to reorganize my switches?

What if I wanted to upgrade or swap out for a higher-powered accessory? This is where the other wiring approach comes in. This means that I can choose any switch in my vehicle at any time. To swap accessories around, simply connect the accessory to a different circuit and change switch rockers.

The wiring and switch bodies all stay in place. This is for each internal bus. The first internal bus is providing power to all ten fuses, and the second internal bus is providing ground for the switches. With five switches only needing However, we cannot go over 80 amps for the first internal busbar, which supplies power to all ten fuses. This does not mean you cannot connect accessories that total more than 80 amps when combined.

It just means that you cannot use them all at the same time when their combined total will go over 80 amps. There is a clear distinction here. This might sound confusing, but you just have to do a bit of math and thinking beforehand. This is what will make installing or swapping accessories very easy.

The accessory wiring would be a direct connection to the RTMR, so modifications would require the enclosure to be removed from the vehicle. Whereas Weather-Pack connectors are rated at 20 amps, Metri-Pack Series connectors are rated at 30 amps. Therefore, they are a perfect match when using 10 gauge wire. Both of these will be 10 gauge wire.

This connector is your direct attachment point for an accessory. Instead, you use the appropriate sized wire to connect your accessory to the Metri-Pack connector based on the need of that accessory. Then install a fuse in the RTMR for this circuit to match the wire size. Use the same chart I listed earlier when selecting fuse size. The rule is that a fuse protects the wire.

In this example, it needs to protect the smallest gauge wire in the circuit, which is 14 gauge. You will make this choice based on your needs.

On a side note, I want to point out that fuse selection is important for not only the wire rating, but also the connector rating. I mentioned earlier my decision to use Metri-Pack connectors instead of Weather-Pack.

If you were to use Weather-Pack connectors, then the highest rated fuse you could use is 20 amps, even if you used 10 gauge wire all the way out to your accessory. The connector has the lowest rating, so it trumps all other wiring. Anyway, the flexibility of this design lies in the combined use of Metri-Pack connectors and 10 gauge wire for all direct accessory connections to the RTMR.

It allows you to use any circuit for any accessory at any time. From this point, you can save a little money when installing wiring from the RTMR out to your accessory by using the correctly rated wire for that specific accessory. One last note before concluding. Anyway, the reason I used a connector for the switch wiring is for easy installation and any future troubleshooting. You know which relay terminals the cavities align to.

The relays will be installed in an upside-down position. This allows you to use the secondary internal busbar as a ground point for pin 85 of the relays. This will allow future flexibility with swapping or upgrading accessories to different circuits.

This will allow for maximum current rating on all circuits and maintain a flexible design. Fuse selection is made based on protecting the wire.

The fuse needs to be chosen to protect the smallest gauge wire for each circuit. Last edited: Nov 18, There are several steps involved in putting this enclosure together. Mounting RTMR and ground busbars to bracket Insert cavity plugs into unused cavities Making the switch harness Making jumper cables Making accessory cables Installing fuses and relays And as a reminder, I take no responsibility for damage, accidents, or injuries resulting from the fabrication or installation of any electrical modifications to your vehicle.

This is simply done by screwing it into place. The RTMR is inserted from the bottom of the bracket with four screws affixing it in place. Next, we want to mount the two ground busbars. One busbar will be used as the ground bus for the five accessories connected through the relays while the other will be used as the ground bus for the five accessories connected solely through the fuses.

Each bus within the RTMR is rated at 80 amps. Additionally, it has five screw terminals along with two studs. This is a perfect number of attachments for the accessory grounds as well as the primary ground wire to the battery. To mount the busbars, I aligned them up on either side of the RTMR, marked the hole locations, drilled holes, and attached with screws and nuts. As you can see in the picture, I mounted the busbars with the hardware backwards. Typically, the screw head would be on the side of the busbar with the nut on the backside of the mounting surface.

However, to maintain a clean look with only screw heads showing on the top surface of the bracket, I installed the nut into the recessed hole in the busbar instead of the screw. With this particular screw and nut size, the nut wedges into place and prevents it from spinning while tightening.

If you use a different screw and nut size or want more reinforcement, you could always add a bit of epoxy on the nuts. As a result, all of the cavities associated with pin 87A on a 5-pin relay need to be sealed with cavity plugs. When looking at the RTMR from the back, this is the entire middle row of cavities on the right side. Simply insert a Metri-Pack green cavity plug into each of these holes.

The second part has the mating connector and is the longer harness that travels through the firewall to your switches. We need to make this now, because these wires will be inserted into the RTMR before any subsequent wiring, which are installed over the top. They are also 18 AWG wire and can be a bit temperamental when installing.

So it just happens to be easier to insert them without any other wires in the way. The switch harness is composed of six wires. Five circuits are the positive signals from the switches and the sixth is a ground wire for the switch independent LEDs. I prefer using a connector so that I can easily remove the entire bracket and RTMR in the future for any reason. Therefore, a Weather-Pack six-way connector is a perfect solution. With multiple circuits, it makes sense to vary the color of each wire.

This helps me to troubleshoot in the future. Set the black wire aside and slip on green cable seals to the colored wires. These need to be installed first, because doing so after stripping can be a bit difficult without bending the exposed wire. If you choose to solder your terminals, do so now.

These will only insert in one direction. I maintained alphabetical ordering of color corresponding to relays one through five. Use a heat gun to seal.

Attach black wire to stud on RTMR for the 2nd internal ground bus. Place the wire as follows. Gather all of the wires towards the top end of the Bussmann RTMR so that they lay flat and grouped together. Slip on braided sleeving and one piece of heat shrink tubing. Use heat gun to shrink and hold in place. Slip on second piece of heat shrink tubing, and slide down the harness a bit.

We want to install the Weather-Pack connector first and then slide the tubing into place afterwards. Insert each terminal into Weather-Pack female connector while maintaining correct order of wire colors: black, blue, green, orange, white, yellow. The Weather-Pack connector has labels A-F for each circuit.

Flip down Terminal Position Assurance latch. This assures that the positioning of the terminals remains within tolerance and will allow the mating connector to align without any problems. Then slide the heat shrink up into place, and use a heat gun to shrink. I used the same colors as before: blue, green, orange, white, and yellow. Insert each terminal into Weather-Pack male connector while maintaining correct order of wire colors: black, blue, green, orange, white, yellow.

Set two aside and slide one piece over all wires up to the connector. Slide into place up near connector while positioning the braided sleeving roughly in the middle of the tubing. Use heat gun to shrink in place. Use a heat gun to shrink in place. Bundle the three separate wiring harnesses together so that the loose ends are aligned. This will position the wires as shown below. Grabbing all nine wires with the ends aligned, slide the braided sleeving over the group, continue until it meets the three shorter sections of braided sleeving.

Slide down the wiring harness and position over the the point in the middle where the various sections of braided sleeving meet. Slide over the loose end of all nine wires and position so that the braided sleeving is roughly in the middle.

Trim wiring if necessary. This is what it should look like now. At this point, you can set the switch wiring harness aside. The other five fuses can be used for non-relay, low-power accessories. For example, you can use fuses , , odd-numbered fuses, even-numbered fuses, or any crazy sequence that you like. Personally, I used odd-numbered fuses with the relays. I chose to do it this way, because the relays take up two rows of cavities in the RTMR, and the odd-numbered fuses align with the first row of each relay.

This makes the wiring layout clean and elegant. If soldering terminals, do so now. The next step is to insert the jumper wires. Start by bending the wire into a horseshoe shape, making sure that the terminals are facing the same direction. Then insert one end into an odd-numbered fuse cavity.

Continue with the remaining wires and it will look like the following when complete. This cable and connector is what you use in the future to attach any accessories to your vehicle, such as lights and compressors. In total, you will need to make ten of these cable assemblies. Five will be for accessories through relays, and the other five will be for fused only, low-power, accessories.

Another detail to consider is that we are using two ground busbars, one on either side of the RTMR. I mention this because it makes a difference in how the cable assemblies are made. The five cables for the accessories through the relay are made slightly differently than the five cables for the fused-only accessories.

The only difference is that they are mirror images of each other, which flips the terminal alignment. When complete, simply make four more identical cables. If you swap the order, all it does is orient the plug in the opposite direction. Snap on blue Terminal Position Assurance clip. There is no specification as to which side the clip is attached to.

I chose this orientation and maintained consistency for all cables. Slip on heat shrink all the way to the retainer clip and use a heat gun to shrink the tubing.

Print a label using a label maker to indicate which accessory this is. Notice how with the cable laying flat on a table, the red wire is towards Build Your Own Boat Center Console Css the top and the opening of the terminal crimps is towards you. This will ensure that the black wire is on the side near the Blue Sea busbar when the red wire is inserted into fuse block.

If you choose to solder terminals, do so now. Attach sealed AWG heat-shrink ring terminal with 8 hole to correct position on busbar. Bend the black wire to the side, push the switch harness wires towards the center, and temporarily slip the red wire into the fuse block to pin Do not seat all the way.

We are simply putting the cable in place to align the black wire up against the ring terminal to determine what length to cut it at. Align the black wire to the ring terminal, mark, and cut to length. Remove cable assembly and ring terminal. Lay the cable on a flat surface with the black wire bent out to the side as shown below. This will ensure that the terminal it will lay flat once installed in the fuse block.

Crimp ring terminal, use heat gun to seal, and install permanently into fuse block. Once installed, it will look like this. Now we need to make five more cables for the fused-only accessories.

The overall process is exactly the same, but there is a subtle difference in the cable assembly process. Simply put, we need to position the terminal differently on the red wire that inserts into the RTMR. This is opposite of how you did it before. Whereas the red wire was on top with the cable laying flat on a table, the red wire is now on the bottom, and you position the terminal crimps facing towards you as before. When the red wire is inserted into the RTMR, the black ground wire will stick out to the other side towards the second busbar.

As an additional observation, when you slip on the ring terminal to the black wire for the ground busbar, it will look like the following. These five cables are not using any relays. Instead, they are inserted into the even-numberd fuse positions. So the first cable will be in fuse 2, the second in fuse 4, an so forth. After making and installing the five fused-only accessory cables, it will look like the following image.

Completing The Build The final step is making and connecting the power and ground cables as well as inserting relays. As mentioned previously, we are installing these upside down.

So start with one relay as shown below, and then continue until all five are inserted. I do that whenever I install an accessory to the vehicle. Next, we need an overall circuit protection device for the RTMR. I used an ANL fuse holder, but you could use a circuit breaker if you prefer. This was installed on the top-side of the bracket. I made mine just long enough to connect the two together without any slack. The other end attaches to the second internal bus providing power to all of the fuses.

Next, we need to make a short cable to connect the second internal ground busbar to the external ground busbars. If you remember, this second internal busbar is not handling a lot of current. This is the ground point for pin 85 of all five relays. The maximum current with all five relays engaged will be less than 1 amp. Therefore, a jumper wire of 18 AWG from the internal busbar to the external busbar will be sufficient. But with that said, I chose to use 10 AWG wire strictly for the durability.

Use a heat gun to shrink. Secure in place from the 2nd internal busbar to the external busbar immediately adjacent. We need to connect the external ground busbars together. Secure the two busbars together at the ends where the switch harness exits the enclosure. However, for installation, we need to make two more cables: positive cable to connect the battery to the input side of the ANL fuse ground cable to connect the external busbar to the battery negative post These will be cut to a custom length based off of your needs.

The following picture shows where one end of the ground cable is connected to the external busbar. The positive cable will connect from your battery to the input side of the ANL fuse holder or circuit breaker. But at this point, you should know the necessary steps to complete. Previous articles discussed parts, tools, and assembly for the enclosure.

This will include detailed instruction on Build Your Own Boat Center Console Zero how to connect your switches, power supply, and grounds. This part will outline the following: Switch Panel Fabrication Switch wiring Wiring harness installation Electrical connections Final installation And as a reminder, I take no responsibility for damage, accidents, or injuries resulting from the fabrication or installation of any electrical modifications to your vehicle.

For this project, I chose to install the switch panel in the overhead console sun-glass compartment. My Toyota Tacoma has two sun-glass holders in the overhead console, and I chose to install the switch panel in the compartment closest to the rear of the vehicle.

This is a tight fit and prohibits the use of switch backs. At a workbench, detach the sun-glass holder which would be closest to the rear of the vehicle, and set the overhead console aside. Using the switch holder as a template, mark the outline of the switch housing with a Sharpie pen.

With a Dremel tool, cut the hole. I found it easy to cut in two passes. First, lightly score the line, and then cut all the way through on the second pass. The switch housing is easily snapped into place. Finally, insert your switches in whatever position you desire along with the switch blank. There is very limited space in the sun-glass holder compartment to accommodate the wiring.

Therefore, we need to modify the backside of the overhead console to make more room. Simply use your Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel and hack it.

I removed as much as I could while retaining the mounting points. From the inside, it should look similar to this. This means that the lower LED is not controlled by the switch itself. Therefore, it will be dimming. The upper LED is controlled by the switch and will illuminate when the switch is on. If you choose to use a different switch that either eliminates the LEDs or reverses the positions, then I suggest you read through this section and adjust accordingly.

The terminals should be the same but in different positions. This section will show you how to make a wire harness that supplies power and ground to all your switches as well as the signal wire to your relays. Study the following diagram of the back of a Contura V switch and familiarize yourself with the terminals.

This diagram indicates the necessary wire connections, which we will make shortly. By making individual wire harnesses for power sources and ground, these can be installed to jumper the switches together. This allows us to have a single source or ground wire for all five switches instead of separate power and ground wires for each switch.

Therefore, we need to make a total of four wire assemblies that provide power or ground and that jumper the switches to each other. Instead of connecting to the back of the switches, they will connect to the rear of the switchbacks. My suggestion is that you read this section and adjust accordingly after you understand the process.

We will make all four wire assemblies before making any connections. So you can start with any color. Crimp them together. Technically, these are the incorrect size when twisting two 18AWG wires together. But they worked in my situation.

Notice how I positioned the second wire. This is done so that when the assembly is connected to the switches, they install nice and flat without any twists.

Crimp on the second connector. Continue in this fashion until you reach the last wire, where you simply crimp on the fifth and last connector. When complete, the assembly should look similar to the following. With the exact same process, make three additional wire assemblies with the other colors. The first connection will be to the lower independent LED. This is the light that illuminates when your dash lights are on.

Begin with the brown wire to terminal 7 on the switches. It should look like the following when complete. The ground for the upper dependent LED is through terminal 8. Use the black wire assembly for this and connect to terminal 8 in the same manner as the brown, with the long wire connected to the first switch. The power source to the switches, which illuminates the upper dependent LED and that sends power to the relays in your Bussmann RTMR, is connected to terminal 2.

Use the red wire assembly and connect similarly as before. The last terminal connection is for the signal wire that connects to the relays in your Bussmann RTMR. Crimp a AWG female connector to each wire. Connect the wires to terminal 3 of each switch in the same order as we did in the switch harness when building the RTMR: blue, green, orange, white, and yellow. Your decision is in how to connect that harness to the switch panel that you just wired. Another simple option is to use butt splice connectors.

A final option is to use a connector of some sort, which is my preference so that the installation maintains flexibility and allows the overhead console to be removed in the future for any reason. My choice in connectors is a Molex Mini-Fit Jr. Grab all the loose wiring together and temporarily slip on the shrink tubing. Cut the wires evenly so that they hang over about an inch. Afterwards, remove the tubing and set aside for later.

Molex terminals. Crimp female terminals to each wire. We want to insert the terminals into the plug first. Insert the terminals into the Molex Mini-Fit Jr. When complete, it should look like this. This step involves routing the harness from your engine bay, through the firewall, up the A-Pillar and to your overhead console. We will also install the Molex connector that mates with your switch panel.

Parts used in this section: Molex Mini-Fit Jr. I used a coat hanger and then enlarged it a bit with a utility knife. From the engine bay, push the switch harness that you made in Part 5 - Building the RTMR through the hole in the grommet.

Continue pulling it all the way through so that only the Weather-Pack connector remains in the engine bay. This means the two pigtails that branch off the harness are now on the inside of the vehicle. Also, leave the two pigtails hanging free under the dash for now. Crimp Molex Mini-Fit Jr. Insert the terminals into a Molex Mini-Fit Jr. You need to maintain the position of wires so that it mates correctly with the switch panel connector.

Use zip-ties to secure in place where needed. To route the harness under the headliner, I needed to remove the driver-side sun visor. This will allow the harness to easily slip underneath at the windshield. Continue routing the wire harness under the headliner and to the overhead console. The end should be sticking out of the headliner opening where the overhead console goes. You can re-install the A-Pillar cover, driver-side visor, and overhead console at this point.

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