26.11.2020  Author: admin   Cheap Aluminum Boats
Build a Plank on Frame Model Ship : 19 Steps (with Pictures) - Instructables
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My name is Bob Hunt and I build model ships for a hobby. I've been building these wonderful models for over 23 years now. I want to share with you a very detailed set of instructions on how to build a fairly simple "Plank on Frame" model ship. The ship I've chosen for this Instructable is known as the Hannah. It was the first ship in George Washington's Navy. The first photo shows what the finished model will look like.

This particular model is not what we modelers call "historically correct" because the framework that makes up the hull is a stylized method of framing and not an actual duplication of the historical framework used. The woods used in this model are not your garden variety of woods. In other words, you can't run down to your local home improvement store and buy them. They sell all kinds of wood including woods that are well suited for model ship building.

The frames, keel, and some of the outer planking are made of a wood known in the hobby as boxwood. This is not the same boxwood shrub that might grow in your yard.

It's a kind of tree that grows in various parts of the world and has virtually no visible grain and is very hard. Some of the outer planking is Virginia holly, a very clear, white wood, as is the deck planking. The pinkinsh wood is called Swiss Pear and is also used for the upper planking, mouldings and some of the deck furniture.

The black wood across the hull is ebony. All of these woods can be obtained through Gilmer Wood mentioned above. Milling the wood to the dimensions needed to build this model does require a miniature table saw and a regular woodworking table saw or band saw. Additional information on milling the wood will be covered in the next step of these instructions. To build this model, a set of plans are needed. For this model, I needed to create the frame drawings in particular.

After doing some additional research I was able to find the two key drawings needed to loft a set of frame drawings.

A body plan and waterline drawing for a Colonial Fishing Schooner very similar to the Hannah. These drawings were drawn by a gentleman by the name of Howard I. Chappelle, who is no longer alive, however, many of the books he wrote on naval architecture are still found in bookstores today. Using Chappelle's body plan and waterlines, I was able to loft a set of frame drawings for my model.

Photos of some of my CAD work are shown with this step. Some of these drawings would not fit on a single sheet of paper, so 2 or 3 drawings were created that can be taped together to form the complete drawing using the black reference lines found on both halves. You might also want to browse my website to see additional photos of my construction of the Hannah model as well as some other models I've designed in AutoCAD and buit from scratch.

After downloading the ZIP file, unzip it to any directory you wish to work from. These files all have meaningful names that you can easily distinguish. You will be told what drawings need to be printed for each step of these instructions.

To aid in the framing of the model, a special jig is used. This jig holds the framework in perfect alignment until the outer hull planking is applied. I'll cover the construction of the jig in full detail later in this Instructable. Please do not be intimidated by the complex appearance of the finished model. These instructions will explain the complete construction of the model in step by step detail. Anyone with wood working skills should be able to build this model, provided of course, that they have the proper tools.

I will be covering tools needed as well. So let's get started! First, I'd like to cover some of the tools you will need to build this model.

Here is a list of tools I find helpful in all of my model building Not every tool is needed to build this model. I will tell you what tool I used for making each part at the beginning of each step of these instructions : 1. Micro Saw Blades Micro Mark 5. Dremel Rotary Tool Micro Mark 6. Helping Hands Micro Mark 7. Variable speed scroll saw or Jewelers Saw for cutting out frames - Micro Mark 8. Swiss style watchmakers tweezers Micro Mark Deluxe pin vise Micro Mark Dimensioned mini-square Micro Mark Steel machinist square Micro Mark Angled high precision micro shear Micro Mark Tweezer nose pliers Micro Mark Mid size file set Micro Mark Sand It Micro Mark Micro drill bit set Micro Mark Office clips, small and medium size Pan vise Micro Mark Veneer Calipers for measuring wood thickness Micro Mark Planer or thickness sander There are several items I use regularly in my model building that constantly need replenishing.

So that you will be prepared when the time comes, here is a list of certain supplies you will find yourself using routinely: 1. Weldbond White Glue 2. Toothpicks for mixing epoxy Rubbing Alcohol for ungluing Weldbod if you make a mistake Single edge razor blades for making moldings Other items may be needed as we progress and I will try and give some advance notice of these items when they come up. Before I begin with the actual instructions for building this model, I'd like to go over the process I use to mill wood for a model ship.

Any serious model ship builder will have these tools in his workshop. Tools Needed: 10" table saw or 14" band saw with resaw blade Planer or thickness sander Byrnes miniature table saw with. Most of the wood purchased from Gilmer Wood comes in small boards that are 2" to 4" wide and 1" to 2" thick.

As an example, let's say that you need billets to make frames for this model. They must be 24" long and 1" wide. The extra thickness is needed so that the finished billets will be smooth on both sides, without saw blade teeth marks. I use veneer calipers to measure my billets.

Then cut them to length, 24" in this example. For smaller pieces of wood needed to make various parts on the model, I first mill a billet that is the required thickness of the part I want to make.

For example, the hatches on this model are. Then I would run the billet through a planer until the thickness had been reduced to. From that billet, I can now use my miniature Byrnes table saw to rip strips that are. It's the same process you might use to cut large boards down to smaller boards to make a piece of furniture.

The only difference is that you are working with much smaller dimensions so you need a much smaller saw to cut such pieces without tearing the wood up. The Byrnes miniature table saw was designed for model ship builders precisely for this purpose. The various PDF files that you downloaded are used as templates to make the various parts of the model.

Whenever I say to use a particular drawing as a template to make a particular part, you should print an extra copy of that drawing so that you still have the original for reference. Some part templates are cut out from a particular drawing. For example, in this step, the keel template is cut out from the Side View drawing.

Because a model ship often uses wood that must be milled to very small dimensions, all fractional measurements given in these instructions will be in thousandths of an inch. Wood needed for this step: 1 17" x. We'll begin construction of our model with the keel. Start with your keel piece that is 17" x. At the fore end, a scarf joint is cut. The first photo in this step shows this scarf joint. Use the drawing s with the file name "Frame Plan 1. When I say to use a drawing as a template, I mean that you must cement the drawing to the wood using rubber cement.

After cementing the template to your keel wood strip, cut the strip to the precise length using the template and your Byrnes miniature table saw. You will notice that the aft end is cut at a slight angle. You can use your miniature table saw to cut this angle by setting the cross cut slide to match the angle in relationship with the blade. Making small parts for a model ship is no different than making large parts for a piece of furniture. Other than the tool used, the process is the same.

The scarf joint can be cut on your Byrnes saw also.


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