Quite us, yet after versions in addition have operate of aluminum as well as fiberglass. A large cruise is a mainsail. 1sixteen Scale devise for 30" vessel .
The hinged backrest is an excellent idea where the space behind can be used, during the day to store the bedding. The backrest needs to be at and angle of about 10 degrees from the vertical to be comfortable during the day, yet be out of the way for comfort during the night.
Various other methods have been used such as using in-fills to increase their width between settees. However, if you use the 'padded' backrest as an infill there is no need to find storage space for the extra 'mattress'. However covers for the openings must be constructed securely so they don't give way under a large bottom or bouncing child unless you deliberately want to get rid of them.
And take care when using knotty Wood as framing timber. The Pilot berth or sea berth is usually a fixed affair which is only found on biggish boats. Quite often they end up being used as storage areas for bags and the like rather than boat bunks for sleeping on. The 'Quarter berth' is an excellent use of that 'tunnel' under the cockpit seats or aft side deck. Although some find them too claustrophobic for comfort, they can be snug, safe bunks for use at sea. The major down side of the quarter berth is often the lack of ventilation.
The bottom end of that dark tunnel can become damp and smelly. A vent of some sort at the bottom end will help keep it smelling sweet however, this will need to be one which can be closed easily in foul weather, such as a mushroom vent. The basic pipe cot is regarded as a space saving utilitarian arrangements only fit for occasional use.
And with a bit of imagination they can be designed to be converted into comfortable seating areas for daytime use. The usual arrangement is rather like a stretcher with a canvas base either sleeved or laced on to supporting poles. Neither did I want to spend money or time on upholstery which would most likely soon become grubby.
It also needed to be convenient and easy to stow and erect and have somewhere to hide my bedding. However it turned out to be so comfortable and convenient that the original contraption is still there. The off watch crew trying to sleep on board, at night, at sea need something to prevent them from rolling off their boat bunks as the boat heels. Falling asleep on the leeward, downhill side is fine but if the helmsman changes tack you could be thrown across the cabin, not the nicest way to be woken up.
A good, stout, canvas cloth, well secured is much more comfortable than a board and easier to stow during the day. And the lee-cloth will do away with the need for any hard, wooden lip at the edge of the seating which will uncomfortably dig into the back of the sitter's knee.
As a wooden boat owner you won't have the same degree of condensation and mildew as those poor relations, the plastic boat owners. I've already mentioned the need for ventilation at the bottom end of quarter berths, fore peak berths can also suffer from poor air circulation. Mildew can be eradicated by a good spaying with vinegar however that is no substitute for good ventilation.
The more air flowing through the boat at all times, whether through mushroom vents dorades or other means the better not just for your boat bunks but the boat as a whole. The PM 38 Club, a celebratio of the owners and builders of the free boat plans which were published in magazines such as Popular Mechanics, Popular Science and the Boat Builder Handbook.
Supplies for Wooden Boat Building and restoration, how to choose the materials and marine chandlery for your project. What Everybody ought to know about building Small Boats, guidance and tips for self-building or restoring. Free Sailboat Plans for the backyard home builder, build your own wooden sailboat using these simple plywood designs.
Free Rowing Boat Plans for the backyard home builder, build your own rowing boat, dory, folding dinghy or pram using these simple plywood designs. Free Motorboat Plans for the backyard home builder, build your own speed boat, cabin cruiser, runabout or utility boat using these simple plywood designs. Privacy Policy. Advertising Policy. Cookie Policy. I am perfectly aware that the majority of Wooden Boat aficionados are sensible folk. However, I need to point out that I am an amateur wooden boat enthusiast simply writing in order to try to help other amateur wooden boat enthusiasts.
DIY Wood Boat. Settee Berth. Pilot Berth. Quarter berth. Pipe Cot. Lee-cloths and Safety Boards. Join the conversation. Settee or Transom Bunk. Sliding Bunk Extension. Mignonne's Variation on the Pipe Cot. DIY Woodboat Building Questions Woodboat building questions a Forum for wooden boat building, plans, lumber, caulking compounds and other boat building problems. Worm shoe Sacrificial Protection for Wooden Boats A Worm Shoe is a non structural piece of wood whose 'sole' purpose is to protect the underwater wooden parts of a wooden boat keel, they need checking and replacing regularly.
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Not all that pretty, but i bought cheaper materials. If you want it to look nice then at the least buy sanded ply. If you're concerned about costs then here is tip one. Do not employ the stitch and glue method. Its basically a way to avoid having to be a good wood worker. You can have rough sloppy cuts and still make a go of it. The idea is that you're using epoxy fiberglass to weld a bunch of plywood together. And for gods sake use epoxy. Polyester resin will do the job, and its much cheaper, but its really finnicky to mix and the fumes are extremely toxic.
Give it a look. I went to local lake and rented a row boat. The sides, back and front were about 16" high and about 4' wide so i decided to use those dimensions.
And the sides and back were to be cut from a single sheet so it could only be 8' long max. So now to make a box 8' x 4' x 16" with some tweaking to make it boat like! Lets go I'm not sure what the technical term for this piece is called.
Nor do i care! I could build a lot of things without knowing exactly what they're called. You only need to know those types of things if you plan on debating an expert. They like to make you feel dumb for not knowing they're lingo.
Usually they are just threatened by someone who can do what they do without formal mastery. Its rough finish and it shows on the final product. Its the full 4' width of the plywood. The ends are tapered inward. Not by any specific amount, I just went by eye to what i thought would be nice. The future bottom seam is not flat, its peaked. Only slightly though. If you pitch it too steeply then while sheeting the bottom you will need to cut curved edges into the plywood.
One of the benefits of stitch and glue it you can fill huge gaps. I've gone up to almost a half inch. Any how, onwards and upwards. Thats the living room of my 1 bedroom apartment. Not the best place to build a boat but its what i got. The sides are 8' long and cut to match the width of the edges of the butt end.
It's to hold the shape in the center. I didn't want a big wall in the middle of the boat, so keeping the outer dimensions i cut out the middle leaving a 3" strip that matches the outer edges of the butt end. Then using blocks made from the cuttoffs of a 2x6 i attached the cut out piece back on to the 3" strip. Now it's rigid to hold the shape, and the middle can be unscrewed and removed later to open the cabin up.
All attaching of anything in this instructable is done with standard drywall screws. I made a heap of 2x6 blocks to hold it all together in various places. You can see 4 of them holding the butt end to the sides. These will be removed eventually. The sides were screwed directly to the center brace. It will not be removed later.
Forgot to mention, the front end of the side pieces were cut at an angle to make a "bow". The length was cut match the angled sections of the sides. To guess-timate the width i grabbed the ends of the side pieces and pulled them inward until i thought they might start breaking and then backed off a couple inches and measured the width. Turned out to be 24".
This was where the trickiest wood working parts cam into it. To hold the front to the sides i needed braces cut to something other than 90 degrees. I ripped a 2x4 along its length with a skil saw set to Also where the bottom will meet the front was tricky. I could have and probably should have given the front piece the same peak as the back and center brace, but i didn't so i had to build a custom brace. I screwed a scrap of ply to the front piece so it was sticking out through where the bottom would be going and ran a string from the center brace to the front piece and got a line on how to cut.
Might not make sense but like i said you'll have an easier go if you trace the profile of the butt end to the front piece. I also added more braces to screw the bottom pieces into. This might seem like the hack method at this point, but really this where the stitch and glue method shows its value. I put the factory edges towards the inside. You can see about a quarter inch gap in the middle. Epoxy putty will gladly fill this gap. I could have fine tuned the mating edges with end to end tapers to close this gap, or if i had added the profile of the butt end to the front piece it would have been a little nicer.
Live and learn, and take advantage of the benefits of your build method. Gaps up to a hlaf inch are excusable. Try for nice seams but don't worry if its not perfect.
Anyhow, i then flipped the thing over and ran a marker along the inside where the bottom pieces meet the sides, back and front. Then i removed them and cut along my marked lines.
So after cutting along my lines this is what we have. Ready for the actual stitch and glue bit now. So to avoid fumes i cleared up some space in my bedroom and moved the boat in there. This way i can close the door and hang out in the living room.
It's kind of a lengthy process so i also slept on the couch for a few weeks. If i were more diligent i could have probably done all the epoxy work in a few days, but i'm pretty lazy so i slept on the couch for a few weeks. Put down some polyethelene sheeting. Epoxy does not cure to polyethelene. Usually with the stitch and glue method you do the inside first.
I did it a little different. My way worked. Just saying. I started with what i will call "tacking". Cause its kind of like tack welding metal in spots to hold it together. If you haven't read about stitch and glue its gonna get confusing for you. Duct tape along all the inner seams where there are no braces. I marked along the outer seams where there are no braces with pencil. Wet out the seams with epoxy. Wait about 45 mins, and the epoxy should be sticky but still "wet".
Mix up a batch of epoxy putty. I bought an epoxy putty mix rather than mucking about trying to thicken it myself. Once the initial epoxy is sticky mix up some putty and apply it to the wetted out areas. I gave it a flat fillet rather than a rounded one, and planned on going over these tacks with a proper fillet afterwords.
I tried to make a little drawing of what i did. The fillet is not rounded. Once this has cured fully you can remove all your braces and it should hold its shape. Then you duct tape all the rest of the inner seams. Like i said i let the tacking cure fully.
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