Tunnel King Design - Boatbuilders Site on myboat139 boatplans

How would you go about fabricating these two areas? Aluminum tunnel hull boat plans developing your personal aluminum hulled boat could be a huge endeavor to undertake. Givving my duck boat a new transom that will allow even shallower access.

View tunnel hull boat tunnel hull flats boat plans online for the seabright 21, a shallow draft, atkins style tunnel boat. I recently bought a 17' alumacraft tunnel hull with a 75 hp evinrude e-tec not a jet. Weldbilt all aluminum boats.

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My major concern is reduction of top speed. I plan to build the 20' x 5' skiff myself out of aluminum. Thanks for the help, Danny Ayo Houma, La.

DanAyo , May 31, The 5' indicates the bottom of the hull and not the beam. These are also subject to change. This is used by some of the locals. I'm told that Hell's Bay Boat company is using it also.

In example A notice the red line and compare it to G. The light gray area in G indicates a flat plate that is welded flush with the bottom of the skiff. Not only does the red line indicate a steady rise from entry to exit, but at the entry side you will see that a flat plate is welded in the "nose" of the pocket.

Now notice the green line. It indicates a small pipe that is supposed to vent the air pocket created by the welded plate. My thoughts on B. If a pocket was constructed so that the water never hit the top it would self vent and cause no extra drag. It might work similar to a "step" in the bottom of most bass boats. According to the plans it would also have the configuration of E. What about F? I'm obviously no engineer, but I am interested in learning.

If any thing stated above in unclear, please let me know so I can try to communicate this better. G is illustrated as seen form the bottom of the skiff looking up.

The goal of a tunnel pocket is to elevate the motor so as to raise the prop in shallow water with soft muddy bottoms that are covered with oysters. I need to get up on step from a dead stop. I am very concerned about losing top end speed. My skiffs are under powered for shallow drafting.

Thanks to everyone that took the time to read. Any thoughts, opinions, or help greatly appreciated, Danny Ayo. DanAyo , Jun 1, Even wood structure can be replaced with aluminum works.

Some there are similarities. Your quotation on 4" draft, is it a dynamic lifted draft. If not, then the boat has to be very light. Get a quick check on the intended vessel weight and the available displacement. Some of these links will guide you through to the proportions. For such a shallow draft boat, is the tunnel intended to get water to the propellers.

In most cases, you can let water run to the outboard motor propeller with a aft hull tunnel. Giving a fore tunnel will let water into the bottom and continuing the tunnel will let the water stream flow to the stern. The end result, the Mini Tunnel Hull Boat Plans 100 boat became a twin hull with full waterplane, since it is likely there is no air gap. The tunnel you wanted will take away the floatation you needed.

Sometimes, putting a feature will have "pros" and "cons". You only put features that is best for the intended speed and must provide adequate floatation support displacement.

Some of our comments were stated, because we did not see pictures of your existing boats and those in speed trials. If you post these existing boat pic. Then, we can follow your thoughts in line. Most times we are guessing on the limited inf. Thanks for the reply Peter. My present skiff is 18' with a 4' bottom. It is made with Aluminum and I estimate it's weight at I'd estimate the gross weight at The new skiff will be 2' longer and 1' wider so I don't expect the hull to float any lower with the pocket even considering I plan to use a motor that will weight The goal of the Pocket is to raise the motor higher, especially at dead stop and trying to get on step.

I am concerned about losing top speed. The illustrations below are not very technical, but I hope they are understandable. Along with any other opinions, suggestions, or comments I'd like to know the following: 1. If I run a hydraulic lift plate and raise the motor at slow speeds or steady acceleration from dead stop with No Pocket will the motor get water and the prop perform well enough to get me out of shallow water?

I realize I would have to lower the motor once the hull go up on step. This question is on another suject. Would tucking in the width of the bottom at the rear of the boat increase performance speed? See bottom image in illustration. I know that I have asked a lot of question and I don't expect readers to answer them all.

I do greatly appreciate any help rec'd. Thank you, Danny Ayo. DanAyo , Jun 2, To get water to the propeller, you will either lower the propeller circle wholely below the keel or wing bottom for twin outboards. For partial lowering of the propeller with the hub center to line up with the hull surface, then make a concave conic appendage to direct water flow to the propellers.

Danny's design outline is satisfactory. Ride comfort is in trouble since the real waterplane may rise and fall below the chine for a flat bottom hull.

Recommend to give some rise of floor. This will increase immersion draft, but is more steady in running over rough water. The center profile contour should run well below the chine. The chine should run up to intersect the waterline. Your question on tucking the stern side shell in.

What you show is not enough to make a difference, if you want the water to flow with the waterline. Water will flow in bottock pattern aft in prismatic hull section. And furthermore you'll have the fun and the sense of accomplishment that comes from building your own boat. My plans have been purchased by amateur and pro builders around the world.

Two ways to get your plans By email Mini Tunnel Hull Boat Plans In China free shipping or postal mail. Start your boatbuilding project today! I am currently offering plans for six tunnel boats, as seen in the photos displayed above. Please follow the links under the photos to make a purchase, or to find further information about the individual designs.

I designed the Dillon Mini Tunnel in because there was nothing on the plans market that could pass for a serious, small racing tunnelboat. I raced that boat in our Mini GT class in , won nearly all the races, and captured the highpoints championship. It has proven to be quick off the starting line, fast down the straightaways, and tight around the buoys.

The boat has changed hands a couple of times since then, and continues to be competitive for young racers just getting started in racing. The Dillon EZ Tunnel is the result of my desire to simpify the tunnelboat building process, with an eye on those who have never built a boat before, or with limited tools, help or resources.

I have eliminated unnecessary angles and curves, and replaced all the long stringers with bench-cut plywood bulkheads and girders. A little boxy compared to other tunnels, it is nevertheless a fast boat, achieving 48 mph in its first test run, and has settled in at Send a Link to a Friend. Start yours today.

Racing Tunnelboat Plans All boat plans include: Measured Drawings, ready to be drawn full-size right on the plywood Notes on wood, scantlings, fastenings, hardware, etc.

Dillon Pro Tunnel.

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