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I used some years ago, I think I still have a few laying. At least your photo looks like the same thing. I think I just screwed them into the bulkhead- assuming it is thick enough to take. The problem I had was that the clamping part was some sort of soft metal that did not stand up very long before they were bent back looking more like the 'plastic clamp' in the left had picture of your post.

Eventually, they broke after being straightened out a few times. I have a set of those as. They work As mentioned they are soft metal, and the clamp part deforms and breaks easily. I substituted mine with cut off bits of limewood and that seems to work just as.

Also, you may wish to put some heat shrink tubing on the "knurled screw" it will save your fingers! I've used them and find them pretty helpful for planking in screwing them into bulkheads.

They worked nicely on the Pegasus, where the bulkheads were in MDF. Like Andy said though, the cross piece is soft metal which bends, and the model ship building plank clamps 935 themselves can bend I ruined a couple that got bent. The biggest annoyance is the knurled screw though - they are really brutal on your fingers if you are trying to screw them into something like MDF.

Another great way to ruin them is to over torque the thumb screw. I had a couple of clamps that I over torqued and the screw broke free of the knurled bit. I had to break the thing to get it to detach. When I ordered them they model ship building plank clamps 935 backordered. This morning I received an email saying they were back in stock and to click the link to proceed with the order. They went up in price and from judging by the replies here and other model ship building plank clamps 935 I have read, I won't be going ahead with the order.

I'm glad it ended up being back ordered. I have used the plastic ones but screw shaft tends to come loose in model ship building plank clamps 935 plastic over time. This can be remedied, in some cases, model ship building plank clamps 935 applying heat and melting the plastic a little so it grips the shaft more tightly. Pushpins are great on the first planking of a double planked hull but tend to damage the second planking if you are not careful.

I designed some of my own using plastic clothes pegs. I have posted the method of making these previously but here is the link fir anyone who has not seen it and may be interested.

It would be model ship building plank clamps 935 if I could persuade folk to bend planks by steam or dry heat so that they would be shaped to 'sit' nicely along the hull without need for 'persuasion' by screws, clamps or other devices of torture!

Hey Druxey, you don't have to convince me. I completely agree with you. I bought a curling iron from Canadian Tire for that exact purpose. It's better than forcing the wood into position. I learned the hard way. Hi Druxey. I have used heat and steam for over 30 years.

However, there are still times, particularly on buff bows where you need something - planking screws - to hold planks in place until glue dries. I can't speak from experience as I only have a couple of years but on my bounty heat and steam just would not cut it some force was required and soaking would be great if it wasent but it was so I'm not yet convinced.

I used to use planking clamps but stopped using them because I found sooner or later I run out of place to attach the clamps on the fames. Now I soak and bend the wood then hold it in place with pin on pre-drilled hole on the frames. I have two types of pins, one slightly thicker than the.

For the thicker pin, I pre-drill a 0. It held its place wel. After the glue dried I remove the pins. Before sanding the hull, I coated it with white glue to fill up the holes left. I don't find any problem with this procedure. Personally, I don't use the Micromark screws to force the planks at all.

I do a lot of soaking and pinning, and on my last build, spiling, to get the planks in a pre-formed positioned so that they don't have to be forced. I do think it's important to clamp the planks in position while they are glued to get a tight fit though, and this is where I think the Micromark screws as well as other screws, pins.

If clamps must be used the clamp designs shown in the Ed Tosti's Naiad books model ship building plank clamps 935 build logs are the best I have seen to date. For actual light holding of prebent strips while glue set - still resort to elastic bands with packing model ship building plank clamps 935 scrap pieces pinned. You can see some pinned scraps ready in the model ship building plank clamps 935. I find the pushpins are a trifle heavy for most places and I always drill a pilot.

You can use the pinned scrap on final layer but then the pin goes in just off the strip and I always pack the end of the scrap off the strip with a piece of scrap to make the "nip" level.

In the end, whatever works for each person is the best way to go, but based on experience of quite a few builders at MSW, if the planks are tapered and spiled or pre-formed using the method Chuck Passaro has described, there really is no need for any clamps or rubber bands. Carpenters' glue and finger pressure for about seconds is really all that is needed. Any kind of clamp presents the danger of denting the planks, even if using a piece of scrap between the clamp and the plank.

Just one more opinion based on trial and error over the years. Beg to differ slightly -carpenters glue if you mean PVA needs more than tens of seconds to grab securely but indeed not too long.

And i think we agree planks should be preshaped and that any kind of "clamping" to actually form the plank as its fixed is unwise. I have found that properly shaped planks hold fine within 30 seconds most of the time, and always within a minute using the "yellow" version of PVA. It all comes down to making sure the planks are pre-bent and have no spring in.

Well, we did not get a full meter of snow like Binghamton, NY got in the past day or so, but it will be in the 40's Model ship building plank clamps 935 the next couple nights.

Actually, most of my modeling years were in New Jersey and it was the same there, albeit with model ship building plank clamps 935 furnace going in winter. You can post now and register later.

If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. Paste as plain text instead. Only 75 emoji are allowed. Display as a link instead. Clear editor. Upload or insert images from URL. If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild NRG is just right for you.

We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site www. Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment.

Planking Clamp Use. Reply to this topic Start new topic. Recommended Posts. Worldway Posted January 14, Posted January 14, edited. Does anyone use these? If so, I'm curious if their worth the price. I probably should have asked this question before I purchased two packs. And I'm wondering if you have to predrill or you can just go ahead and screw into the bulwark. Edited January 14, by Worldway. Link to post Share on other sites.

Posted January 14, Can you tell if the metal ones look like they are made of a more sturdy metal? Canute and mtaylor Like Loading Thanasis Posted January 14, Hi Derek. I had also bought one pack of those to find out that they might do what are promising only when the planks are in low thickness and with a gently tension of the screw. Otherwise, as it happened for me, that small plate model ship building plank clamps 935 to distorting, pressing only the closer to screw side of the plank Now, I use those plates in a combination with board pins instead of screwswhich because of the wider base, they prevent the plate to be deformed.

As about the pre-drilling on the bulkheads, a smaller in diameter than the screw drilling, usually helps. Canutethibaultron and mtaylor Like Loading Landlubber MikeCanutethibaultron and 1 other Like Loading Landlubber Mike Posted January 14, CanuteSeventynetthibaultron and 1 other Like Loading


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Dec 17, �� I used to use planking clamps but stopped using them because I found sooner or later I run out of place to attach the clamps on the fames. If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship. Clamps. Micro-Mark is the experts' source for clamps for micro projects. Our mini clamps are must-have items for every modeler and hobbyist and can be used for supporting work pieces that need to be soldered, filed, drilled or carved, filed, drilled or carved. builder to successfully overcome what is sometimes a difficult part of the model building process. 2 1. Keels: Figure1: This drawing shows the basic false keels of a plank on bulkhead (POB) ships. These are the most common types of false keels that come with kits. The upper one is a typical.

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