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Not all boaters use trailerable boats. Even those of us who do have trailerable boats, at times we may like the ability to load a car-topper, then head out to some remote lake in the alpine country for some peace and solitude. Some of my most enjoyable times I have had were many years ago when we were starting a family, building a house and working long hours. But I managed to occasionally wedge in a day or two on a lake using a 9' pram, an old 2.
Today, my main boat is a 18' aluminum North River boat with a 75hp Evinrude E-Tec main motor and Yamaha T8 trolling motor for most of my bay and ocean fishing.
Setting in the barn is a 12' Columbia fiberglass tri-hull boat that fits the category of a car topper that seems to be saying, take me fishing. This little boat fitted right in with those plans. And I traded for a 6hp Johnson that did perform quite well attached to this boat for that purpose. My Ford F 4X4 short box, just needed a carrier rack built on it to accommodate this neat old boat. Special Requirements ; There were a couple of special needs that I considered in the plans when making this unit.
Much thought was given to how it needed to be built, and the design was changed numerous times, sometimes in bed at 3AM in the morning.
To accommodate this, the front uprights needed to be moved out and forward as far as possible in order to allow the lids of the tool box open fully. It was made in 2 sections, the front and the rear. The toolbox is bolted onto the top of the cab-guard base plate using the existing toolbox mounting bolts. The joint of the rear section, when used is tucked under the rear of the toolbox. Doing it this way the front, cab-guard section can remain on most of the time and there is no extra metal showing behind the tool box.
Again a lot of thought went into designing and redesigning a method of using the existing stake pockets of the pickup bed as Build Your Own Hurricane Boat 110 the basic part of anchoring to the bed for this rack. The final and simplest design was to make a wooden insert that just fit loosely in the stake pocket with a 1" slot milled crosswise in the center section. All the wood does is to hold the metal plate up in position and to keep it from twisting when the bolt is tightened, holding the metal framework to the bed.
The metal plate is longer that the crosswise hole, so it is tipped up, inserted in the wooden slot and under the outer pocket edge, then slid back centering the threaded hole. The plate needed the outer lip milled lower because the top of the bed is not level, but tips down slightly on the outside. In the LH photo below the actual wood is milled down more than double of the depth the plate is shown at.
One word of wisdom, when inserting this clamping plate into position, do so with the bolt slightly threaded into the hole, otherwise, since the stake-pocket hole has no outside edge other than the outer skin of the bed, you may just loose it down into no man's land. If you are lucky, it may fall out the bottom. Been there-done that. When not using the rear section of this rack, these stake-pocket clamps units need to be removed, otherwise the clamp will likely disappear.
On this bed the upper portion was not level, side to side, with the inside higher, so you will notice the clamp has a lip milled off one end to match this angle keeping the bolt vertical.
After usage it became apparent that the thin metal lip if the bed sides that my clamp came up against, got deformed when the bolt was tightened down. This pickup has a plastic bed-liner in stalled as seen in the RH photo below.
The boat clamps were salvaged off an original boat carrier and the eyes opened up to accommodate the larger pipe. These were positioned in line with the dividers for the rear slider window.
But after the initial test run, it became obvious that the PVC rollers were rather slippery, so a wrap of scrap paper pulp plant drier felt was contact cemented on to the rollers. The short ones that go thru the bed are only 1" long and use nuts underneath. All this metal was painted black. The 1" pipe was fitted to the radius of the upright pipes for a good fit. The threaded hole was deeply countersunk, for better self-alignment on assembly. Then this hole was arc welded up, securing the threaded attachment slug to the pipe.
Once fitted and all bolted together the ends were stamped to identify just which went where in case of any slight differences. An afterthought was to weld a single chain link on top about 2" form the ends of these side pipes.
This now gives an additional chance to use a ratchet strap if needed. This is so I can drive into my garage with the rack on without hitting my overhead door frame when the door is up.
That is how close they are to my upper door frame. And I have to deflate my air overload bags to Since I had made these upper corners rounded from Elbow pipe fittings so the tarp top would fit without poking holes in it or leaking, this was fine, BUT it really needed a slight upright extension off these corners to help guide the boat during the loading process.
Also it might just be prudent to use a ratchet strap, both on the rear and front over the boat and attached to the welded on chain links of the horizontal pipe as a safety measure as seen in the photo below.
Boat Hardware ; Note the wheels on the rear of the boat in the photo below. These make life a lot easier for one person to load, and or roll to the water's edge. These wheels can be pivoted and rotated degrees so the boat can be used like a wheelbarrow either upside down as shown, or right side up for moving from the parking area to into the water.
They can then be rotated back up while under way like shown below, or totally removed. Here is the finished product about ready to roll. These were positioned so that they were spaced approximately equalizing the top distance into thirds to give more support to the tarp cover. Now while at it, it appeared prudent to make provisions for a rear overhang in case of inclement weather. All 4 of these extend about 38" rearward the length of the left over conduit.
The side corner conduit is also bolted onto in the basic manner using the 1" side pipe retaining bolt, however these are permanently welded to the adapter base. To accommodate the bend of the elbow, a section on the inside corner had to be removed to clear the inside of the elbow bend. What I found is that these tarps are made in different thicknesses, the green or brown are 3 mil thick, the blue is 5 mil, while the silver is 10 mil.
This 16' length is a couple of feet to long, as they do not make 12' X 14', so the front will be just hang down between the cab and front of the bed, or simply be cut off as I did.
I also made a rear section and had him sew a rear tarp flap that uses Velcro attached around the rear top bow and sides then has a zippered door upright in the middle. To hold this tarp cover in place, bungee cords are used to attach to the existing side eye grommets and down to the bottom side of the bed or into the fender wells. This will more than likely not be good to drive down the road with this tarp top on except for very short distances or slow speeds , but for a overnight stay, it works great, as I have used similar units before, not quite as elaborate as this, but functional.
This will not only be used for fishing, but hunting as well, especially with the price of gasoline climbing. The photos below illustrate this unit in use in Montana on a recent deer hunt, nothing fancy, but quite comfortable. The one thing we found was that you need to consider where you park the vehicle so the wind if any would be coming toward the vehicle from the front. A few slight additions are forthcoming, but by and large I am happy with how this unit came out, nothing fancy or pretty, but functional.
And the grandson who shared this with me was skeptical at first, but by the next morning, he even approved. And it may be used for both hunting or fishing. Since I have written this article, there have been a couple of readers who are interested in something similar, but just for camping in.
This same principle of the framework could be applied to being made from PVC pipe. By not cementing the couplers, this could be totally collapsible for storage. The anchors would not have to be made of metal, but simply a tapered wooden wedge into the stake pockets should suffice. This would not sustain being used for driving down the road, but as a stationary shelter when you get there, it should function fine. Used for Hunting : Now an added bonus. Not to let my eyesight become out of focus, when returning from a Montana deer hunt in , on the freeway a vehicle passed me, which I noticed something that got my attention and now has been added to my rack.
It is mounted onto a horizontal plate welded onto the top front pipe frame with the winch on the underside to clear my garage door opening, and has the drum facing rearward and mounted so the wire spools off the top of the spool. The 12 volt power is supplied off a 7 prong RV plug-in that was wired into the front drivers side of the pickup bed that was used to power my previous slide in camper. I try to go to Montana deer hunting with my grandson every year.
He however seems to never have enough accrued vacation time for all the time that I am there, so some of my days are me hunting solo. I am not that young anymore, 78 and with a shoulder and lung problem, when loading a deer into the pickup bed could pose a problem if being alone, even if I got permission to drive out to retrieve the animal if a higher bank was not readily available and in the right location.
An elk could also be a chore for oven two hunters. In use, the winch cable will go to the upper rear pipe frame, through a removable 2" pulley there and then can be used to lift a animal up onto the pickup bed tailgate.
A 2" X 12" plank is used to slide the animal up onto the tailgate, as my model Ford F does not have a readily removable tailgate. But once the animal is up near or on the tailgate, repositioning it farther forward would not be a problem with tension being applied by this winch. Or even use the cable to raise the deer up where you can skin and quarter the meat.
Back to the Main Ramblings Page. Originally started , Last Updated Contact the author. Stake-pocket clamp unit side view with the low side notch to the outside Here the clamp unit is inserted in the pocket.
Here are the 2 center supports with the rear adapters Here are the rear extensions with adapters. Here a side view of the finished camper in use for a overnight hunting stay I n the photo below you can see an air mattress and sleeping bag.
The one drawback here, was since the toolbox is still in place there is not a lot of foot room under it with this mattress in place.
Later, I plan on using a old carpet as a matt and then a body length mattress will be used, allowing more foot room. Here the camp is set up for the night Campfire after dark The one thing we found was that you need to consider where you park the vehicle so the wind if any would be coming toward the vehicle from the front.
Here is the view showing the winch mounted on the front pickup rack. Stake-pocket clamp unit side view with the low side notch to the outside. Here the clamp unit is inserted in the pocket.
The 1" pipe ends showing the method of attachment. Boat rack mounted on the pickup. Here are the 2 center supports with the rear adapters. Here are the rear extensions with adapters.
Here a side view of the finished camper in use for a overnight hunting stay.
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