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Log in or Sign up. Boat Design Net. Considering a flat bottom jon boat 5' beam at the bottom and 24' in length. Why can't you use an adhesive to apply a sheet aluminum on the bottom to seal and provide durability?

And, aluuminum the same to the sides from the bottom to just above the water line? At the seam or joint what aluminum v bottom boat restorations and ideas system you use to seal it, class cloth on the wood and then apply aluminum over it? Or cut the bottom out slightly larger and bend the edges up, cutting V at the corners and folding them aluminum v bottom boat restorations and ideas system over the edge?

No restoratuons allowed! Plywood or planks WavewackerOct 14, Unless the aluminum was fairly thick, you're not going to gain much by way of abrasion resistance and very little penetration resistance. You could epoxy on 12 gauge aluminum, but now you're into the range of a welded aluminum structure and can skip the wood all.

In fact, I'll suspect a Xynole sheathing over plywood is better at abrasion protection, then 16 gauge aluminum sheet glued to plywood. There are ways of toughening up a plywood Jon boat without resorting to a material as costly as sheet aluminum in the thicknesses that would be effective. PAROct 14, I agree with PAR. Adding aluminum sheathing would really gain you nothing, but would add weight and the complication of using an adhesive that would bond to both wood and aluminum without eventual delamination.

I don't think it would be worth it. IkeOct 14, Just a thought to get the advantages of each, alm on the outside, wood on the inside, but your points are well. Any suggestions to better protect the hull. Restoratins of rocks. This is a brother-in-law, a boat to share so to speak but I doubt I'll use it rdstorations The other thoiught was just a food frame with aluminum sheet without fasteners below the water line. Neither on of us can weld enough to make a boat.

BTW, we can get a good deal on sheet goods out the door, but shop time is not worth andd. WavewackerOct 15, I Used Flat Bottom Aluminum Fishing Boats China would just put two or three skegs or runners along the length of the. Then the skegs take the dings and bangs and the bottom doesn't.

And, the skegs are easily replace if neccessary. Where I am the shorelines are all very rocky and this works. IkeOct aluminum v bottom boat restorations and ideas system, Sheathing a boat works for special aluminum v bottom boat restorations and ideas system. When I was a kid we would sheath small wooden skiffs with sheet metal, aluminum, so the we could operate iveas skifffs as ice breakers.

The metal has no structural value and was ruined or peeled off by spring. Many wooden fishing boats have metal sheething to protect planking from gear chafe.

Aluminum is very weak, flexible and easily abated. Steel is a different story, but neither is a really good choice over plywood in small craft. On many of my small skiffs, I spec thick, double bottoms with runners to offer some sacrificial elements as well as a touch, thick bottom alumnum fend off rocks. The choice is yours, but the sheathing will be lighter then a thick plywood. PAROct 15, Par, neither one of us ever worked with fiber glass, that was part of the idea as a quicker and easier way to go.

I have not heard of Xynole, bortom I looked it up. A poly cloth used instead of glass and what I read it seems to be in favor and perhaps more durable, didn't see anything about the cost.

All this time I assumed epoxy and resign was rather cheap, it's way expensive for some of that stuff, I can't imagine doing Bolger's Tenessee at 32' and glassing it as it would add thousands.

But that's my idea, not this deal with my in law. Anyone have any idea what the cost is to glass say one square foot? Or Xynole and epoxy? Have no idea how far a quart goes or a gal. Might as well consider all the supplies that go into a build and estimate what it costs to do one sq.

Skids, will do WavewackerOct 17, You must log in or iedas up to reply. Show Ignored Content. Similar Threads. Replies: 6 Views: Blueknarr Dec 22, Replies: 3 Views: Ike Apr 26, Replies: 7 Views: 14ft Flat Bottom Boat Motor And Trailer Agent 1, Rod Tait Aug 26, Hegarty's wood boatyard Nick.

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They keep colourful. We do not need carrying any sort of DIY skills or knowledgecreation the hothouse palm device collection. Operate of vessels in salt H2O requires most some-more caring since a salt is so erosiveneeds to put up 12" plywood shelf in to a dado revoke of a shelf hackneyed.

Even the boat that shines like new, often will be rotten if it is of a certain age. You will find wood everywhere in older boats. Plan on replacing the floor, stringers and transom at the least. Some hulls were cored, which often is rotten as well. One thing that really sets a beautiful restoration apart is the paint job or factory finish. Most of these old boats are gelcoat from the factory and many from the early days have metal flake, which is kind of cool.

But, in a budget restoration, a good way to save money is to not paint the boat. If you want to paint it by all means do, it can be great and really make your boat look unbelievable but know that it will be very expensive. Even if you are planning on doing it yourself, it will take considerable time and effort and your time is worth money.

The solution is to restore the factory finish as best you can. The point is, if the gelcoat is repairable, then absolutley you will save time and money there. It is a pretty fun and rewarding process detailing it as well. If you can restore the gelcoat instead of painting, it will save you serious time and money.

An old Checkmate after a metal flake restore. It was faded and dull before. For the record, I am not a fan of wood in boats. Todays materials and technology make wood basically obsolete in modern boat building.

Almost all the old boats we are talking about here used wood originally. When it comes to restoring, you have to make the call based on your budget and access to materials.

Wood can be done with care, sealed properly and have a Aluminum Boat Trailer Round Fender Mount And Step Pad Up good result. We are talking about marine plywood, or woods like baltic birch, common for transoms. The advantage of going with more modern materials, closed cell composites and prefabricated composite panels like Coosa, is that they are stronger and lighter when used correctly.

In a small boat, the cost increase is not significant. The transom and stringers are the key structural components of your hull. This one is nicely reinforced with knees and gussets. Consult a professional before you proceed with these critical parts.

Avoid pour in transoms, as they won't have the integrity a solid transom will. Lightness is critical in small boats, all boats for that matter. Whatever you choose for the structure, build it as light as you can and when you select other things like seats, hardware and accessories, look at the weight; it all adds up.

On light hulls like these, Lbs could be a significant percentage of the overall weight. Entirely up to you. Once you have repaired your boat and it is solid, you will want to take some time to make sure the hull is true by blueprinting it. This has been covered in an article we did in August. Over time, your old hull will have been scraped, gouged, warped etc. In short, repair defects, straighten and sharpen strakes, chines and edges.

A lot of boats back then were pulled from molds too soon and had hooked hulls, others just have suffered fatigue over time. Do not bother with speed coats, just make sure it is straight, sharp and clean. Here is our article on blueprinting for more. Your hull has everything to do with how you're boat performs. Great for Boat Trailers - Aluminum will not rust. Adjustable Height when mounting Boards between 24" to 36".

Includes Mounting Hardware and 24" Carpeted Boards. Includes 9" roller and 2" caps with mounting hardware. Includes 2" x 4" x 24" Boards and mounting hardware.

Upright Guide Measures 51" Tall x 25 inches Long. Includes 2" x 4"x 60" Boards and mounting hardware. Secures with 2 U Bolts to Trailer Crossmember. There are a variety of ways these assemblies mount and many variations of boat trailers on the market. The best advice would be to know the material your frame is made of, Square Tubing, C Channel, or I-Beam, and also know the dimension of your frame.

If you seal the inside, water will still exist within the seams, and the pressure will always be working to push the seals out. I used paint-on Flex Seal as seen on TV! Paint doesn't stick to it all that well, but if it gets scratched and exposed, it'll just be more camouflage. I did shoot the flex seal with some Krylon Plastic Primer.

It was a guess, and it didn't do much. Probably wouldn't bother if I did it again. And then I coated the whole bottom with some spray-on pickup truck bedliner.

It'll provide some abrasion resistance and protection, and actually reduces drag by breaking up surface tension as the water runs along the hull. Think golf balls or shark skin. I really only had the square-footage needs for one sheet, but since all 3 seats are 16" wide, and 50" long, it wouldn't have left me anything long enough for the 50" wide transom boards. I made a cardboard template from the old transom.

I decided to make it 2" taller than the old one, to give more support to the stern end of the boat. After cutting, I test-fit the seats so I could mark the holes for their new hardware. Didn't want to drill any new holes anywhere if I didn't have to. I primed and painted both sides of all the pieces of wood, even the sides of the seats which will be hidden.

Primer is actually designed to hold onto moisture, which is why it holds paint on. But primed and unpainted wood or anything else is actually worse than leaving it bare. I got the transom bolted in through all the same old holes. Added some stainless fender washers to the middle holes, where the wobbling engine had made the old holes into ovals.

I Aluminum Boats And Motors For Sale You noticed that the old seats had failed along their ends. The long dimensions rested on aluminum thwarts, but the ends were hung from aluminum flanges. Since we mostly step from the dock onto the ends of the seats, having them hung from thin flanges would lead to new failures, so I decided to reinforce the ends from below. I cut the edge of a pressure-treated 2x6 to the right angle to support the seats, and screwed pieces of it in inside all the thwarts.

I just evened it up with the long aluminum flanges. Its not in contact with the floor or the sides of the hull, and it'll be protected by the seats above, so I didn't paint it. I had to shorten the EPS foam a little because of the new seat supports, but the high density stuff fit right underneath where it used to be. The holes I'd drilled lined right up and the seats went in with their new hardware without any issues.

Each seat also had a pair of brackets to reinforce the rim of the hull and keep the boat from twisting under load. First I soaked them in some rust remover for a couple of days, but that had no effect. I ended up putting them in a vice and using a sawzall to cut off the screw parts flush with the back of the brackets. Then with a drill press and progressively larger bits, I took out the screw heads from the inside until I could crack off what was left with a large phillips screwdriver.

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